Hannahthetraveller

Aeham Ahmad, Pianist, on the Fall of Assad - Van Magazine

7/1/2025

Back in September 2023, I went to hear Aeham Ahmad play at the Konzertgalerie here in Steinfurt. I was moved not only by the performance, but by Aeham's life story of growing up as a Palestinian refugee in Syria, fleeing to Germany and the traumas along the way. Aeham wore his emotions so publicly. Music magazine Van were equally taken with Aeham's journey and comissioned my to write an interview - A Climate of Fusion, published in September 2023.

Fast forward to December 2025, the surprise fall of Syrian leader Bashar al-Assad, hit global news headlines. But there is only so much that news headlines can share, so Van were keen for a follow-up. Aeham happily agreed to talk to me again, and with a very quick turn around, we published this interview in December 2024.

Wonderful Chaos - Pianist Aeham Ahmad on what the fall of Assad means for him, his family, and his art. Interview with Hannah Parry.

It was enlightening to me to hear Aeham's views and to learn of repercussions for the Syria people scattered around the world. It was also great to have an update on Aeham's career.

I hope you are interested in reading both interviews (Van has a paywall, it is worth subscribing, of you can read a limited number of articles for free).
Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions - comment below.

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Boat Spotting in the Mediterranean: Crew, Compass Collective

12/4/2024

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Boatspotting sailing boat, Trotamar III. Photo Credit Compass Collective.

In March 2024 I combined a few of my previous experiences into one by volunteering on a small sailing boat in the Mediterranean. The Trotamar III is a 13 metre boat donated to organisation Compass Collective, with the aim to boatspot - to document human rights violations, monitor for maritime emergencies and assist in rescues if needed. A lot of people seek safety in Europe by leaving Tunisia or Libya in small, overcrowded and unsuitable boats with the aim of reaching the island of Lampedusa - the most southern point of Italy and 175 kilometres from the mainland.

I have friends from Sudan who took this route, who told me of the conditions they faced in Libya, the fear of setting off into the water. It is estimated that almost 30,000 people have died crossing this border since records started in 2014. The people who lost their lives did so due to European politics, a lack of safe routes to asylum and because war, famine, colonial exploitation and personal persecution make their home countries impossible to live in.

With limited sailing experience gathered from my time on tall ship Blue Clipper in Scotland, a huge awareness from my work at Are You Syrious and skills in blogging and social media, I joined the crew of six as Media contact and deckhand. You can read more about Compass Collective on their website, including about how to join the crew and more importantly, how you can donate to help their valuable work.

With my feet firmly planted and my hands gripping the ship’s wheel I squinted at the compass, illuminated only by a red light in the pitch darkness. Within days of joining the Trotamar III crew, I was entrusted with steering us during the night.

Life on board had an easy rhythm for me and my five crew mates. Four hour watches with eight hours in-between left time to sleep, cook, look-out, chat, read, plan. We were in the Mediterranean for a reason, to spot for small boats on the dangerous migration route from Tunisia and Libya to the Italian island of Lampedusa.

“Mayday relay, mayday relay, mayday relay.” We heard the call on the radio, only five nautical miles from our location. Within half an hour we saw a metal boat crowded with over 40 people. Training kicked in, we all took our positions to launch the dinghy, ready life-vests and document what was happening. One of the main reasons to be there was to ensure the authorities carried out their responsibilities as well as to show solidarity with the people.

One minute the boat was there, the next it was gone. The metal boat sank in an instant as another wave lapped over the low side in the increasing wind. Chaos. The next hours are a blur. Life vests and lines were thrown, centifloats too - giant inflated tubes that many people can hang on to. Darkness fell.

Afterwards, each crew member had different experiences and memories. Me, I remember handing out dozens of foil emergency blankets to people I'd helped climb from the cold water, each rustling in the wind, causing strange reflections. And I remember pulling a little boy, younger than my nephew, onto the deck. Carrying him to the cockpit, heavy thanks to his soaking clothes. I remember his hand clinging to my jacket, not wanting to let go, not knowing what would happen next.

Everyone onboard was transferred to the Italian coastguard. Suddenly it was over, our little boat went from busy, active and crowded, to quiet and empty. Our six crew were alone in the dark, far out to sea. Again, feet planted, hands gripping, squinting at the redlit compass, taking us back to Europe.

Training in Lampedusa. Photo Credit: Compass Collective.

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SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY: Ranty and Overwhelmed

1/12/2023

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Vienna Views, from the island in the Danube River.

This post started as a journal entry/rant at myself and I wasn't sure if I really meant to publish it or not. Comments, as always, welcome! Is the world actually more horrible or are we just better connected?

Sometimes change is gradual - like practising a musical instrument, little by little, week after month after year, you are changed. But sometimes change is like the snap of an elastic band, it can no longer hold the tension that has been mounting, something new snaps into focus. And still other times, change is like a meteor making impact - out of nowhere, completely unexpected but utterly unavoidable.

I can pinpoint changes in my life that fit each of these three experiences. I think one of the earliest events to move my attitude towards feeling socially responsible happened when a terrified, drugged woman forced her way violently into my London flat. I yelled as she threatened me with a sharp shard of mirror. I screamed when the police eventually came to the door - how I wish my neighbours had taken notice of the noises that they had undoubtedly heard.

A few days or weeks later I saw a man lying face down on the floor outside a house on my street. I knew it was a hostel of some kind, where people just released from prison, or narrowly avoiding homelessness stayed. Most people gave the place a wide berth - but I stopped, checked he was fine, helped him inside.

The Rathaus (Townhall) in Vienna, and its Christmas Market.

Can you just walk past?

I write this from Vienna airport, where I've just handed in an iPad left on a seat. This got me thinking - I could have walked past and not put myself to any trouble, as others must have done, but I didn't see it as an option to ignore my social responsibility.

So it is with the so-called refugee crisis. Awareness of how people have fled their homes spirals outwards. How can I not care about the war in Sudan when I have friends with family there? What can I do to raise awareness of the life that faces people deported from the EU to Iraq when people I now fear that fate for themselves?

But it's so much to care about! The world is suffering crisis after crisis both at home and abroad. Western politics is increasingly hostile, kindness and caring are no part of debate and discussion. It's so easy to feel overwhelmed and not know what to do.

As with so many things (and I learn this myself time after time), it's about taking one step at a time. What about donating clothes, setting up monthly giving to an organisation like Roots or No Name Kitchen? Or if the climate is higher in your priorities then find small ways to reduce waste, cycle more, take one less plane journey, plus the work of Greenpeace is amazing.

When I started this blog post, it was partly building an excuse to myself for not going through with something I've started. That spending time and money on helping organisations was worth more than my 'real' job. Since writing the first part, several things have lined up to give me confidence that - despite the huge problems in the world, it's worth doing the small things and being open to the big things. And also that it's not one thing or another, it's possible to have a mixed up life with different things in it.

I would love to hear reactions to this post. Do you kind of get where I'm coming from? What would you like the next post to focus on? Comment below!

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5 Tips for Taking a Cruise as a Solo Traveller

15/11/2023

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Is solo cruising the way to go? This blog post has top tips for making the most of a cruise.

Have you been on a cruise? Would you considered one? Have you got any other tips to add?

Inflation is turning holidays into rarer, sparser, and arguably more boring events, especially if you have to rely on a single budget as a solo traveller. Could a cruise be the answer? Some people are even considering life full-time on a ship: according to Heart, Angelyn and Richard Burk have found that staying full-time on a cruise ship and travelling the world can cost as little as £35 a day—and they get food, medical care, and cleaning services to boot.

Even if you’d rather not sail indefinitely, booking a cruise is a fantastic approach to getting a stellar holiday as a solo traveller. Budget holidaymakers who dislike spending exorbitant amounts can have days of inexpensive fun. Simultaneously, those who seek novel experiences and journeys will get all desires satisfied through the cruise's multi-destination itinerary. If you’re ready to take the plunge, here’s how to make the most of travelling on a cruise.

Book the right cabin

To maximise your comfort during your stay onboard, choose the best cabin for you. As a rule, the cheapest cabins are the smallest and placed in the cruise's interior, usually at the bottom of the ship. Cruise liners like Virgin Voyages even offer budget cabin options for solo travellers. The most expensive, of course, will be large suites at the top that offer gorgeous vistas. If you’re splurging and want a full-on opulent experience, you’ll want to choose a room along the lines of the latter option. However, you won’t need an al fresco view of the ocean if you aren’t planning to spend a lot of time in your room, or a large room if you're travelling alone. Or if you’re sensitive to light and on a cruise to Norway, for example, cheaper cabins are perfect for ensuring you’ll get to slumber in complete darkness despite the country experiencing round-the-clock sunlight in the summer. Select the cabin aligned with the cruise experience you want.

Make the most of onboard amenities

Savouring the sun and lounging by the crystalline pool is a wonderful way to spend time on a solo cruise. However, don’t forget that cruises offer all-inclusive travel experiences. This means one of the best ways to maximise your holiday is to take advantage of everything you paid for on board. Take the amenities available on Explora Journeys—their first-of-their-kind ships are crafted to ensure your safety and enjoyment. You can enjoy a luxurious thermal spa, top-notch fitness facilities, nine distinct culinary experiences, and unlimited beverages all by yourself. If that weren’t enough, a team of hospitality experts is at your service to curate authentic and cultured experiences to enhance your enjoyment. When you’re on a solo cruise, don’t forget to make the most of these amenities—especially since you're not sharing them with anyone.

Join on-board activities

Want to try something new during your solo holiday? Cruises give you the perfect opportunity to do just that. Every day, you’ll receive a newsletter outlining activities and events you can try on the ship, from indoor rock climbing and scavenger hunts to mixing drinks. Saga Cruises even offers ballroom lessons! Go for any activity that piques your interest. It’s all free, after all—and learning a new skill on the waves adds an extra fun factor

Forge friendships

Making friends on the high seas is a great way to have more fun on your holiday as a solo traveller. You’ll learn a host of new stories and perspectives, not to mention have a new person to enjoy your cruise experience with! If you're travelling alone, the Norwegian Cruise Line offers a solo lounge exclusively for passengers who’ve booked solo studio cabins, giving you a spot to meet people looking to mingle. You can also join solo meetups, request to share a table during meals, or participate in a sports match—so be sure to get yourself out there

Take advantage of ports of call

Part of the fun of cruises is that not all of your time will be spent at sea. While the journey will be mostly touch-and-go, looking out the window and exploring new places before moving on to the next is key to maximising a cruise trip as a solo traveller. You can do this effectively by hopping onto the activities at your cruise's various ports of call. You can take a tour of local historical sites or join adventure excursions. You can even consult locals on the area's hidden gems, which is how discovered the otherwise secret trail known as Narnia Falls on Hawaii's Big Island was discovered. With many cruises offering the opportunity to customise your itinerary, you have the opportunity to access exciting landlocked experiences. You won't know about them unless you look for them—so be sure to exhaust all the possibilities before you head oceanside again.

Going on cruises is an excellent way to get a wonderful holiday experience as a solo traveller. Maximise it with these tips!

For more articles about global travel, visit the rest of the blog.

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LITHUANIA: Volunteering with Sienos Grupe

27/9/2023

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Stunning sunset, Pabrade Church, Lithuania

2021 saw the start of thousands of people attempting to enter the EU from Belarus and Russia. The governments of Belarus and Russia made it easy for people in many Middle Easterns and African countries to get a visa, with promises of an easy journey to the EU. The lies that people were told were in order to create problems for the EU in what was later described as a “hybrid attack”. People with hopes for a brighter future are being used as weapons against Europe.

Behind the numbers and political posturing are real people with hopes, dreams and stories to tell. That’s why Stephanie and I came to help out local organisation Sienos Grupe for a few weeks. This blog post is about what we’ve done, the people we’ve met and the lessons we’ve learned.

Sienos Grupe (SiG) started in 2021 as a group of people refusing to accept the dehumanising treatment that Lithuania was showing to people arriving here. Much of the work at the beginning was helping people immediately after they had crossed the border, whilst in the woods. Back then, there would be multiple alerts a week, with groups stuck in the forest in brutal winter or hot summer in need of food, water, medical assistance or clean clothing. Since Lithuania erected a fence along most of the 680 kilometres of it’s border with Belarus, the number of alerts has reduced to almost nothing.

We were prepared to go on alerts if needed but we were also prepared for there not to be too much to do and integration of people who are here and want to stay is becoming ever more part of the role of SiG. That’s how we ended up with some English and German classes in a random town. Twice a week we set up tea and biscuits in the church hall used by Caritas and welcomed people from the camp to come and chat.

People from Sri Lanka, Russia, Syria, Iraq, Belarus and Nigeria came to escape the boredom of waiting for an asylum decision. From Advanced English - where topics such as “what would be your superpower” and the best literature from different countries were discussed, to Easy English where spelling and dissecting grammar were on offer - we tried to provide something for different levels of prior knowledge. Thankfully there were people who would explain and translate for others - once again I’m reminded how language skills can open different doors.

One of the many lakes of Lithuania.

Whilst the languages classes were fun, the purpose of meeting people staying in the camp was also to gain an understanding of how and when people were still managing to arrive in Lithuania. Or at least that’s what I was told when 20 kids were supposed to be doing a music workshop but were instead running riot!

A camp where many families live had plenty of other activities for children over the summer holidays, but not musical ones. Have you ever tried doing a workshop where you don’t speak the same language as the children?? Well, not content with making drums, we went back on another occasion to try and speak to parents. This time the singing workshop was much calmer and some kids enjoyed playing instruments and singing together.

Having assumed we may not need to visit the forest, it was a bit of a shock to receive an alert. Messages from a group came to the SiG phone and werushed to pack clothes, food, water and first aid before driving for hours into the night.

Lithuania, Latvia and Poland have all legalised pushbacks. That’s to say that people within 5 kilometres of the border will not have a request for asylum accepted and they can be returned to where they came from. This is against EU law and the human rights convention. (Another activity of SiG is to lobby for legal change from every angle). So when meeting a group, it’s paramount that they aren’t found until they have left the border area. Many groups have already been travelling for days in the forest on the other side of the border and can't go further without receiving food and water. All this means that we had to remain undercover so as not to lead authorities to where they are.

Our first mission was unsuccessful. There was a border guard checkpoint very near to where the group were hiding and we couldn’t risk trying to reach them. We stayed in an extraordinary motel to try again in the morning, but one of the group had medical issues so severe that they had no choice but to call the authorities. Driving back after an emotionally and physically draining 15 or more hours was deflating. We were exhausted from lack of sleep, but that was nothing compared to the group who had been in the forest for days and faced an unknown future.

A small selection of the art at the Motel...

Our next mission was similar in so many ways - another nighttime journey, food, water and clothes ready. This time we were lucky.

Creeping into the woods in the dark was scary for us, but nothing compared to the people waiting for us. The person we met, a young man from Afghanistan, was terrified that we were border guards. The fear was palpable, and so was the relief. We said our names, that we were bringing food - finally he trusted us and the air around us changed as his fear turned to gratitude. We handed over what we had in near silence, using as little light as possible, and left quickly. Filthy from the woods, but relieved to have managed, we drove home - only to hear that the next day the group were found and deported back to Belarus.

In response to the "failed" mission, Stephanie wrote the Facebook post below. Click See More for the English.

My next mission was different. There was still a long drive but what a difference it makes to be in the daylight! Again, a furtive walk in the woods, but the sunshine and a short chat with the group made it feel worlds apart. The two who met us were no older than 20 and they sent us a thank you video from the whole group, 11 young guys. We never heard from them again - we can only hope that they escaped.

A real highlight of our time here was helping to organise the first meet-up. A pop-up restaurant in a park in the capital Vilnius was happy to host and one of our jobs was to try and invite as many people as possible.

People from language class came, and people who had contacted us with questions about jobs, contracts or from other camps were all invited. The sun shone, we drank tea, ate falafel and baklava, played games and chatted. Some call this integration, but I think it’s just having a nice time! I played a few pieces on the piano, helped by two girls from Afghanistan who knew one of the songs, and chatted with people I had met before and new people. It was great!

What with driving long distances and a certain amount of planning and admin, we’ve been pretty busy. Add to that that we’ve had The Phone. The organisation phone is passed around different volunteers and it’s been our job to respond to messages. The hardest part has been responding that we can’t help. There were several groups in the forest that for one reason or another we couldn’t even try to get to - the distances were too far, or the group couldn’t stay in contact enough to ensure we would find them, or we couldn’t provide the level of assistance that they needed.

This was the case with F. and J. two women from Somalia. The husband of F. contacted us from Somalia when the women were left in the woods by the rest of the group because J. was injured and couldn’t walk anymore. The others knew that calling an ambulance would alert authorities to their location. That was the start of three days of messaging. The women were picked up by border guards, given minor medical treatment and pushed back to Belarus. The spent another night in the forest. I nearly wrote “lost in the forest”, but at no point were they actually lost. We knew their location. It was fences, border guards, politics, that stopped them receiving any aid.

Eventually they reached a house and were once again detained by border guards - Belarusian this time. Somehow they made it back to Minsk, where they sought medical help. As I write, they are working out how to get back to Somlia - despite the humanitarian crisis there, it’s still better than the treatment they received at the feet of the EU.

It was fences, border guards, politics, that stopped them receiving any aid.

Shortly after we left Lithuania, whilst travelling home via Poland, we saw in the SiG chat that there were more alerts. Other volunteers are local people, with regular jobs, families and commitments. It's not easy to set off instantly for a 15 hour round trip and no one could go. Full time volunteers are desperately needed. Can you spare a week or two to help? Get in touch if you think you could.

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Are You Syrious? Who we are and My volunteering story

16/8/2023

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Did you know I work for a Croatian NGO?

When I left Bosnia in 2020 - after spending 5 months volunteering in Calais, Serbia and Bosnia - I wanted to stay involved in the sector, but volunteering in the field isn't possible full time. So I searched for something that I could do remotely. More than three years later, Are You Syrious is still part of my life.

Are You Syrious is based in Zagreb, Croatia, and like many organisations that still work today, it started in response to people fleeing the war in Syria in 2015. Hence the nifty play on words. The News Digest was a way for different groups of people helping in different countries on the so-called Balkan Route to communicate and stay informed with what people needed, where people were still needed to help out and for people-on-the-move to know where they could find practical support.

Since then, AYS has developed into several distinct parts:

On the ground, practical support for people in Croatia. This includes a free shop where people can come and find clothes, shoes, toiletries and much more as well as language lessons.
Advocacy work, campaigning for change on a local, national and Europe level.
The Info Team. We collect information from groups and news agencies concerning all of the EU external borders. This is published three times a week as the News Digest.

I started as a volunteer editor. This means that I used information gathered by someone else and formulate it into digestible sections. The format is always the same: a feature, followed by news from Search and Rescue vessels in the Mediterranean and Aegean oceans and around the Canary islands, then news organised by country. Next comes EU policy and Europe-wide news. At the end is a Worth Reading/Listening section of longer articles or podcasts perhaps about migration in countries outside of Europe.

Back in 2020 the Digest was published every day, with a Special released on Sundays. Due to a reduction in the number of people volunteering, we’re now down to three times per week, plus monthly Specials. Most volunteers commit around three hours a week and pick which day suits them. Since the team has got smaller, I have taken on more responsibility and now co-ordinate the rota, organise meetings, make social media posts and try to recruit new volunteers. For this I now receive a stipend, and I continue to write or gather information as a volunteer.

Screen shot of the published Digest on Medium.com

I find writing the Digest rewarding. I keep updated with news in countries that No Name Kitchen has bases, I learn about countries that I’ve never been to but that my friends had to pass through and I feel a sense of achievement when I feel I’ve untangled a wordy EU policy statement into something easier to understand.

What I’ve learnt during my time with AYS is that change is slow. The situation for people fleeing war and persecution has only worsened in many places, overt racism is evident in how people from different countries are treated, the warm welcome and special treatment of refugees from Ukraine being the most obvious.

But there are some successes, the opposition to the Rwanda scheme, individuals who thrive in their new countries. Most of the time, it’s depressing. Reading, digesting illegal and inhumane acts against people in need takes an emotional toll on me every time I write. The reason I continue is that nothing will change if no-one is looking and holding others to account. We will continue to write about every shipwreck, every pushback, every abuse of human rights that we can, in the hope that the lives of some people are somewhat improved.

How you can help

You can read the latest News Digest at our page on Medium where you can also subscribe to get it sent straight to your inbox.

You can follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Join the team!

Can you spare around three hours a week? We are always interested in hearing from people who want to volunteer. The three different roles available are info gatherers who search for information, editors who write the news and publish the article and proofreaders who check the English of the finished product. Alongside this, we have meetings to chat about new ideas, potential topics for Specials and to keep in touch. Full training is provided as well as regular workshops from professionals in our field. Please get in touch via the contact form if you want further information.

Do you think it’s important to keep updated about these topics? How could the Digest be improved? Comment below!

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Crewing a Tall Ship: Scottish Isles on Blue Clipper

1/8/2023

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Guests returning to Blue Clipper on the dinghy after a trip to the Bridge over the Atlantic.

I was hugely excited to join the crew of Blue Clipper - a tall ship which is currently sailing around the West Coast of Scotland. When people asked me before I went what exactly I would be doing, I wasn’t really too sure myself. Here is an account of my time onboard, the amazing wildlife I saw, people I met and things I learnt. Spoiler alert: I learnt A LOT!

The journey from Edinburgh to Oban via Glasgow isn’t a fast one, but it’s stunningly beautiful. The train line meanders along the coast of lochs, with views of mountains and little waterfalls, stopping at fantastically named stations - Arrochar & Tarbet, Tyndrum Lower and Falls of Cruachan.

Sail's up, let's go!

The three masts of Blue Clipper were instantly visible through the drizzle that greeted me. As the Maybe Sailing website explains, Blue Clipper is just over 30 years old and is a gaff rig schooner (this means the sails go forwards to backwards with wooden parts at the top and bottom), with three masts and nine sails. She can sleep a maximum of 30 people in crew and guest accommodation, with a comfy saloon (for meals and relaxing) and compact galley (for the professional chef Alex to work his magic).

I joined on a Sunday, when guests had just left and the last of the tidying was being done. That meant I had an opportunity for an introduction to the ship as well as some relaxed time with the crew - a mixture of paid professionals and experienced volunteers. By the time the guests joined I had practised some emergency drills, and helped make beds, clean and tidy.

Sunset colours anchors off Mull.

As a scuba diver and kayaker I had some transferable skills applicable to sailing - however, all the other volunteer crew had more experience than me. As we welcomed the first of the guests onboard, it was like learning a new language. Thankfully my crew mates were kind and patient, explaining about halliards, backstays, how to coil a line, what a shackle is and much more. The role of a deckhand is to both help with the sailing part of things, but also to take care of the paying guests. Making tea, washing up, laying the tables and chatting were one part of the job I felt more comfortable in.

Scottish weather - not famous for being sunny and warm, yet on both trips around the Isle of Mull, sunshine outweighed rain by far. This meant that we had plenty of time on deck to spot wildlife, and the conditions were perfect for us to land on my new favourite island - Lunga.

One of the Treshnish Isles, Lunga is a breeding ground for Puffins! The cute and confident birds line the path, stretch their little wings, take off and clumsily land again all without a care for the dozens of tourists looking on.

As fellow deckhand and professional wildlife guide Viky pointed out - there are other birds. Lunga is also home to Shags - large, dark feathered and green-eyed - are far more suspicious of the human visitors. The rock stack at the far end of the path hosts a screaming competition with Kittiwakes being among the noisiest.

Did you know: baby puffins are called pufflings, and the collective term for a group of puffins is called a circus.

Confident puffins on Lunga

I soon fell into the routine of the ship. A couple of hours each night were my anchor watch shift - taking readings to ensure we were staying safely where we should be. Then helping serve breakfast or donning a harness to untie the sail ties in readiness for the day of sailing. How it all works eventually becomes logical - lines are either hauled or eased to make the sail go up, and then the same lines have to be eased and hauled to reverse the action. The boat looked stunning when we had six of the nine sails up, with no noise except the lap of the sea against our hull.

Other stops during my two weeks included Iona, where I had time to photograph the Abbey and run up a hill and back down for some stunning views.

Did you know I've been published by Iona books? I contributed two short stories to an anthology called Refugees from Eden which is available here.

We also stopped at Ulva, where the lovely sheltered bay had us enjoying paddleboarding, mast climbing, and jumping off the ship. (Yes I did jump, yes it was cold!). Then there was Seil - where a mysterious path leads to the Bridge over the Atlantic, an arched stone bridge which spans the ocean from the island to the mainland.

Tobermory was a favourite stop too. Through some excellent steering from skipper Jack, and some professional crewing from Jan, Andy and I, we moored elegantly in the harbour. Not only did mooring mean no anchor watch, but the buzzing local pub was busy with locals, frequent visitors and live music.

What's the story in Tobermory?

Being a deckhand on Blue Clipper was hard work. Early mornings, night shifts, heavy pulling and lifting, endless washing up - but it was extremely rewarding. To feel part of a crew working for the same goal, to see the stunning scenery, watch dolphins play at the bow of the boat and spot a minke whale and meet new and interesting people was truly special.

Top tips:

1. Before volunteering on a tall ship I recommend gaining some experience, either in sailing small boats, joining Maybe Sailing’s traineeship or in other, non-sailing boats.

2. Know your knots - I can’t even guess how many kilometres of rope there are on Blue Clipper, and that rope needs securing, attaching, moving, etc. Quickly being able to tie a variety of knots is essential.

3. Bring waterproofs, enthusiasm and energy!

Are you tempted to crew a tall ship? Or have you already done it and have other tips to share? Comment below!

Bottlenose Dophin - one of many that came to play at the bow of the boat.

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MALAWI in Two Weeks: ADVICE AND PHOTOS

2/6/2023

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Malawi is a relatively small country with mountainous landscape and the stunning coastline of Lake Malawi. European tourists often flock to nearby Botswana or Namibia for safari trips, or Tanzania or Mozambique for hiking and beach time - yet Malawi has all that. Plus, amazing local chocolate, coffee and wine, amazingly friendly people and an abundance of fresh, local fruit and vegetables. Here’s how we spent our trip.

DISCLAIMER: Before going on a trip like this, I like to read blog posts that give me ideas of why I might want to visit a place, plus some practical tips. I don’t like to read too much detail because I want to see it for myself. This post aims to fit that bill.

Day 1

Lilongwe: International flights land here or Blantyre. We went Frankfurt - Addis Ababa - Lilongwe with Ethiopian Airways.
Bridgeview Hotel - not the cheapest but excellent staff and good location for the Sososo bus. A taxi from the airport was 30,000 Kwacha (MK).

Airport tip - get cash from one of the several machines and then get a SIM card from Airtel, extremely helpful staff.

Day 2

Sososo buses became our favourite way to travel. Comfy, free snacks, punctual even when there is a sermon before departure. Our trip to Mushroom Farm started here, via Mzuzu where we switched buses and then got out in Chitimba (Bridgeview booked us the tickets a couple of days before). The road was terrible, really terrible, after a particularly bad rainy season, so the journey took pretty much 12 hours.

Lake Malawi: After 12 hours on a bumpy bus, the first view of Lake Malawi was so welcome! We stayed at M’buta Lodge LITERALLY on the lake. Despite arriving in darkness, we couldn’t resist a swim. M’buta staff were extremely friendly and catered to our vegan needs for a lovely breakfast. Highly recommended.

Read this medical advice about swimming in the lake and buy medication at the pharmacy there.

Mushroom Farm: before booking to stay at this eco-lodge, read the transport information on their website. The road up is quite an adventure. Despite our initial misgivings about motorbikes, it is actually the most comfortable way to ascend the mountain and plenty of people will offer this service. Prices fluctuate hugely - due to petrol prices and how new to the country you look but enjoy the views on the ride up!

Talking about views - the Cob House at Mushroom Farm is a loo with the most spectacular view. The bathroom is open to the mountain side, remaining private but offering incredible scenes of the lake to the east and mountains to the north. Wow.

Quick review: Mushroom Farm has imaginative accommodation options, great food, a lovely yoga shala where monkeys can watch you. We enjoyed the communal dinners. Food and drinks - quite pricey. Rates suggested for guides and massages - too low.
Chombe Plateu hike - go early, drink water, enjoy the views as well as walking most of the way on the dirt road passed houses and small communities.
Manchwe Falls - you could find it on your own but the guide can give you extra info and context.
Livingstonia - really interesting town. The Craft Coffehouse was a nice stop and a guide can definitely give you history and facts about the place.

My favourite bathroom ever, the Cob House at Mushroom Farm.

Day 6

Travel to Nkhata Bay

How to get to Nkhata Bay had been the topic of conversation at all of our three dinners at Mushroom Farm. You can go via Livingstonia to Mzuzu or back down the mountain road. We did the latter, motorbike and then Sososo at about 8:30. From Mzuzu there are minibuses and sharetaxis. We were relatively comfortable in a share taxi but overcharged, it did however take aus all the way to…

Butterfly Space

The Beach House was not just next to the lake, but over the top of it! The hammock on the balcony was brilliant. The views of the bay and out across the water were great and the staff here were so helpful with various matters. Highlight - futila a traditional breakfast dish with sweet potato and ground peanuts. Due to our lack of organisational ability, Butterfly Space was only available for one of our nights in Nkhata Bay so we had to switch to…

Day 7

Mayoka Village

Right next door the views of the sunset were stunning from the veranda of the Family Chalet (honestly it was all they had left but the hands down the fanciest accomodation we had). We enjoyed the paddleboards, comfy bed and friendly staff but the food was better and cheaper at Butterfly.

Day 8 and 9

Kayaking with Monkey Business

Being on the water and away from the bay meant we saw fascinating wildlife and had a glimpse at more rural life. However, the company was difficult to deal with - we agreed on one price and were then told another (apparently exchange rate related but this wasn’t believable) and the experience wasn’t worth the price we paid.

Not people to sit still for long, also on Day 9 we crammed in a visit to Kwanza Cocoa for a chocolate tasting!

We just needed somewhere to sleep in Mzuzu so found a cheap place on Airbnb which wasn’t at all where we expected it to be from Google Maps but we had an enormous and very clean room.

Zomba Plateau has a variety of ecosystems including this amazing jungly part!

Day 10

Travel to Zomba

Our good friend the Sososo whisked us back to Lilongwe. Again, we had heard about various different bus options to get to Zomba, including a lakeside bus. If we had more time we might have risked this but reports of the road put us off. From Lilongwe we took the Smart bus from Biwi bus station at 2:30pm. It was supposed to take 4 hours but took closer to 6.

We stayed at Trinity Homes and Treats. DON’T REQUEST LAUNDRY HERE! We were charged over 30 Euros for a load of laundry which was returned to us still damp. Even without the laundry, this was on the pricey side for Malawi. We didn’t really get the service we expected here and there was no view or other redeeming feature.

Day 11

Zomba Plateau

Hiking on the Zomba Plateau was one of our best days! I really enjoyed the motorbike ride up, ascending 800 m of elevation from the town. Jonas was the best guide, stand by for more about the community-based conservation being championed by Jonas to prevent deforestation and restore woodlands to help both nature and the local population.

Day 12 and 13

Liwonde National Park

Zomba town and market were nice for some shopping and we had a drink at the African Heritage Centre. We were all set to face a minibus or shared taxi situation to Liwonde when we managed to get a private taxi for a reasonable price and it was a hassle free and comfortable journey.

Kutchire Lodge picked us up from the petrol station in a safari vehicle - I was so excited! We bumped and bounced the 5 kilometres to the lodge and moved into our tree house.

We loved it here too. Our tree house overlooked a part of the river, with the national park itself on the other side. The bedroom, bathroom and veranda were basic (and a little bit scary given the height!) but had everything we needed and being able to watch from our verdana as a troop of baboons had fights, attempting to jump over the water with their impala side-kicks watching was exactly what we had hoped for.

TOP TIP: if you plan to do more than one game drive, do morning and evening on the same day and you only have to pay park entrance once. The boat ride doesn’t require entering the park.

Day 14

Travel to Dedza

This was our least favourite travel day! We enjoyed a relaxed boat ride before being dropped back in Liwonde town. We thought we had agreed a share taxi all the way to Dedza Pottery, but the driver sold us on to a minibus, which waited and then stopped every few kilometres. We did get delivered to Dedza Pottery without extra charge, with the final part up yet another bumpy road on a motorbike!

Dedza Pottery is a strange oasis. It’s like being transported to a European village. The climate here is cooler, the garden is lush, with rose beds and an expansive lawn. The room was large with a lovely outdoor area too. The staff were friendly and they made us a vegan meal despite having nothing on the menu, but the food prices were the highest we’d paid.

TOP TIP: Sisha nyama in the town was so good we ate there twice. Nsima and two or three different vegetable and bean dishes for 1 or 2 Euros. A lift to town, plus a delicious and inexpensive meal is probably still cheaper than staying at the Pottery!

Day 15

Dedza Moutain

Hiking Dedza Mountain was another highlight. We couldn’t have had a better guide than Samuel (his Whatsapp number is +265 995 94 68 89). We walked directly from the Pottery and Samuel new the small and interesting paths to take. Tough couple fo hours to reach the summit, but totally worth it.

Fantastic and responably priced food at Sisha Nyama, Dedza.

Day 16

Cave Paintings

Samuel was once again our guide to see the cave paintings. This involved a car and driver, an hour long bumpy road (was this the worst road of them all?) and then more than an hour hike through a village, up the side of a mountain to reach the biggest of the caves. It was cool to see the paintings but motorbike would probably be more comfortable, and it all took longer than we thought. The second and third caves were much easier to access but the paintings are less impressive.

Our last bus journey was my favourite. Someone we met in Liwonde suggested catching one of the big buses from the road block. The main road between Blantyre and Lilongwe is traversed by at least three or four different companies. They don’t officially stop at road blocks (police checks are frequent and normal throughout the country) but we were told to ask the police to help us. I really wasn’t sure of this plan, but I knew we’d easily get a minibus if it didn’t work. Of course it worked seamlessly! The police officer told us exactly where to wait, we had time to buy some homemade crisps, before a Captain Tours bus showed up and welcomed us onboard for the journey to Lilongwe. Amazing. We got on at Dedza road block at around 6 pm and the journey to Lilongwe took about an hour and a half.

We struggled to find somewhere to stay in Lilongwe that wasn’t expensive or in an inconvenient location. Kasha Premier was just about in a convenient location but the tiny room and meagre breakfast were disappointing for the price. Just give me real coffee and I’ll be happy! They did however provide a reasonably priced and very comfortable ride to the airport.
It was a whirlwind tour for sure! On reflection (and if you prefer to make your mind up yourself please don’t read on) Mushroom Farm was the most unique place we stayed, with incredible views and really nice food - however the journey to get there given our time-frame was too long. If we did it over…!

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Review: If these walls could sing - documentary about Abbey Road Studios

7/4/2023

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Abbey Road Studios

I have been past Abbey Road Studios numerous times. The recording studio in north London is a household name, “Live from Abbey Road'', you’ll hear on BBC Radio. I’ve walked over the famous zebra crossing which features as the cover of the Beatles album named after the studios where so much of their creative work was done.

Documentary maker Mary McCartney has been hanging around the Studios since before she can remember - literally - as a baby she would accompany her dad Paul and mum Linda as they recorded for their band Wings.

This personal link for McCartney gives this whole film a Rock ‘n’ Roll bias. Elton John talks of working as a session pianist there, followed by Pink Floyd discussing the recording of Dark Side of the Moon. A personal highlight was Oasis' Liam Gallegher and his naive reverence for the building, “It’s like going to church, innit, going to Abbey Road.” Yet, it was the earliest recordings that brought me to tears.

Sir Edward Elgar was the first to record there, with the London Symphony Orchestra in 1931. This blew my mind for several reasons. Can you imagine a time without recorded music?! Pre-1930s and it just wasn’t really possible to hear captured music. It’s difficult to think of now, but you couldn’t easily compare different versions of the same piece, hear your favourite sections over and over again, discover new pieces from all over the world.

The difference from the present day, where during the space of writing the last two paragraphs I’ve just used two separate online tools to listen to music that’s popped into my head, is incomprehensible. Perhaps in contrast to that, though in my mind, Elgar belongs to an even older time, he’s not considered a ‘modern’ composer, but to have this connection to popular music icons, as well as the film music of Star Wars gives me a new perspective on the modernity of Elgar’s music.

I used to regularly review CDs for a couple of different publications, including during a wave of releases of digitally remastered from vinyl, and I never much liked them. Did you know I was a geek? I have a collection of some LPs, and one of the things I love about them is those crackly noises that let you know how historic they are. There was something about the opening notes of Elgar’s Pomp and Circumstance at the start of this documentary that gave me that nostalgic feeling, and brought the first tear to my eye.

Jacqueline du Pre and Daniel Barenboim. Photo Reg Wilson.

The second tear-jerking moment was footage of Jacqueline du Pre playing Elgar’s Cello Concerto, with interview snippets of her biggest fan cellist Sheku Kanneh-Mason. The swell of emotion of the solo cello is one of my favourites. Additionally, there is documentation of du Pre's cancelled recording sessions with husband Daniel Barenboim which added an extra layer of meaning that was too much to contain. Du Pre brought classical music into people’s homes like never before, before her illness, eventually diagnosed as MS, ended her career.

In the last few weeks the BBC announced that the professional choir the BBC Singers would be disbanded. This, along with cuts to other BBC funded groups, sparked outrage amongst the classical music community worldwide. The reasons given for the cuts were to supposedly give flexibility to work with more freelancers, not cutting back on cultural commitment.

Thanks to loud protests, the decision was subsequently revoked, which I am pleased about, yet it is easy to see why the BBC has to evaluate how funds are spent. How relevant is classical music to the average person these days? But how relevant could it be? Sheku is as much a household name as Jacqueline was, film and game music is rooted in classical music (by the way, a term which stretches from ancient history to the present day encompassing more different styles than can easily be described). That’s why I would have loved a little more of McCartney’s film to be given to the classical stars.

This blog can seem to have so many topics and themes, sometimes I wonder exactly what I'm trying to say with my very different interests. I'm certainly not attracting a large following by constantly writing on different subjects. Yet, recently I've decided that that's ok. And I've decided that to be a music-geek and care about justice aren't mutally exclusive. Music is a shared music experience, and can be a uniting tool between people who seemingly have little in common. Plus, so-called classical music is awesome - just watch Sheku in action above. Phew!

If these walls could sing is available to watch on DisneyPlus. Let me know if you've seen it, what else you'd like me to write about or anything else!

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Before and after: an eviction in Dunkirk, Northern France

28/2/2023

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Before the eviction. A fire to keep warm under a shelter made of wood by activists and organisations. Photo Credit: Hannah Parry

On Tuesday last week, I went along as a volunteer with Roots to the waste ground just outside the port town of Dunkirk.

We refer to it as “going to camp”, but that is a generous term for a large expanse of ground, edged by a stinking ditch, with a few spindly trees here and there, and areas of spiky weeds. People have tents in different areas, trying to create a bit of privacy with tarpaulins strung between them. Piles of rubbish await being burnt for warmth as the temperatures plummet towards nighttime.

The people staying here are people-on-the-move, numbering roughly 150 at that time. They come from countries including Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, Syria and Sudan, all with different backgrounds and stories, different journeys behind them. Many of them will have crossed oceans already, in dangerous vessels, many of them will have been illegally pushed back to Turkiye or Libya. All of them are hoping to reach the UK - whether because of language skills, family ties, or belief that the UK will provide a warm welcome and a fresh start.

The “camp” had two areas where different organisations were providing services. Near the gate were a group with a shower van, hot tea and snacks. Later in the day, an NGO handing out needed equipment and clothing would come by to find out what people were in need of and another with packed lunches. Another area, a 10 minute walk down a mud track, had been cleared and made into a social area. There was a covered area made of rough branches, a couple of structures from palettes and tarps which served as shops and restaurants and another that was a tea stand. This area is where Roots has showers, a water point and where we set up phone charging each day. Huge tents get unpacked an erected in just a few minutes, with a generator powering charging tables and a heater, with partner organisation No Border Medics next door providing medical care in privacy.

Living in a tent in winter is horrible. The cold, lack of hygiene and comfort are evident, but before the eviction by the French authorities, at least there was some semblance of routine and structure.

A man sits alone on an office chair in the middle of the waste ground. Photo Credit: Hannah Parry

As we prepared to go to camp on Thursday morning, messages whizzed around. There had been an eviction, what should we do? Showing solidarity with the people and being in attendance could be useful, but getting in trouble with the authorities ourselves could jeopardise the organisation. Human Rights Observers were there, monitoring the behaviour and recording illegal and extreme actions.

The authorities used tear gas, destroyed tents and personal belongings and used heavy machinery to tear up not only the structures of the social area, but the very ground itself to prevent rebuilding and continued activities. The shocking violence of this left a mark with us all that day. We went later in the day and offered charging and met with people. Everyone I spoke to was in shock. Some had had enough warning to gather their things, many had faced similar things before, but many agreed that the methods used by the French were worse than in other countries.

“We have no choice, we’re not going to go anywhere else, so why make it so hard?” one man from Pakistan asked, he lived near the Afghan border and had been approached by the Taliban, and was hoping to join two brothers in England.

After the eviction. The ground ploughed up so that the showers are unuseable. The structures that provided comfort have been flattened. Photo Credit: Roots

People were relieved to be able to charge their phones, a service that Roots offers every single day. And that was part of our act of solidarity - the authorities destroy, we rebuild. Friday was spent with shovels and rakes, pick axes and two trailers, levelling and clearing ground in a new area, moving gravel to ensure it doesn’t become waterlogged and moving the showers and water points to useful places. As other organisations provided materials for people to rebuild their temporary homes, the futility of police brutality was plain to see.

But why? That’s always the question I fail to answer.

Because of politics - France receives $75 million from the UK to keep the “problem” of asylum seekers on French soil.

Racism - Safe and legal routes were provided for people fleeing war in Ukraine. What’s the difference between that war and the one in Syria? Just the colour of the people fleeing.

Misinformation - the public is led to believe that Britain can’t afford to accept more people, yet if people were allowed to work instead of being confined to hotels or camps, there would be a lesser cost to the UK, whilst numbers of people arriving to claim asylum was higher in 2002 that it was last year.

There is no doubt in my mind - the solution to easing the hardship of people forced to flee is to provide safe and legal routes to claim asylum, as were provided for Ukrainian refugees. Let people apply, their claims processed in a timely manner, and let them work while they are waiting.

If you too think that spending huge amounts of money causing physical and emotional harm to people is wrong, please get involved. Donate to Roots, write to your MP, follow Refugee Council on social media to stay informed. Comment below with thoughts or questions.

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Review: If these walls could sing - documentary about Abbey Road Studios

Before and after: an eviction in Dunkirk, Northern France

Hannah the traveller

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