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Seeing Kampot from above: adventuring with Climbodia

30/4/2018

The sleepy city of Kampot, Cambodia was my first stop after the border with Vietnam. The streets around the riverfront are full of western food and English signs about tours and buses so I thought I’d explore out of town. Just as David Van Hulle did in 2013. He said “I fell in love at the spot. I envisioned not only an amazing climbing site as well as an exciting and safe way to explore these wonderful caves, accessible for everyone.” After investing in all the equipment in his home country of Belgium he was up and running within three months.

The brilliant thing about a morning with Climbodia is that you don’t actually have to be good at climbing! Anyone with reasonable fitness and a head for heights can tackle the first climb and via ferrata (traversing horizontally using a bolted cable system) before the abseil down again. My guides Heng and Song gave clear and thorough instruction.

After a short break, Song took us in the cave and explained the history here. The sad recent past in Cambodia is never far away - the Khmer Rogue had destroyed a temple that had been made inside the cave, we could see where the steps should have been. With bats overhead and some tight squeezes through narrow gaps we went right through to the other side of the cave system. Our walk back through small farms with aubergines and morning glory growing gave us an insight into local life. Song pointed out a pool of water, “want to go swimming?” He asked with a smile before telling us that it was a bomb crater. On our return we tackled several of the marked climbing routes. Signs at the site explain the gradings and that independent climbers are welcome to use the site for a one-off $10 fee so long as all safety requirements are met. I hadn’t climbed for a while so I managed an easy route and had a few attempts at a couple of others. I could’ve stayed as long as I wanted and the guys would have belayed me. The site also manages to stay in the shade all day, if I’d had more time I would loved to have returned to build up strength over several days.

Climbodia is a great way to spend a half day and a good way to get out of Kampot and look around. The safety equipment is top-notch, the guides are funny, friendly and informed and climbing is suitable for all levels. Thanks guys for an adventurous morning.

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Diving with Rainbow Divers in Nha Trang

21/4/2018

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Many of my fellow backpackers have mixed reviews of Nha Trang. The guidebook entries warn of Russian tourists crowding the mediocre beach and signage that lacks any information in English in favour of Russian translations. But a chance to dive is difficult to pass up.

I met Mitch, the dive centre manager at Rainbow Divers, the day before my dives. We chatted for a while and I discovered Mitch’s work had taken him all over the world before settling in Nha Trang. I asked him what he thought of the diving here “It’s nice enough,” he says before listing the amazing experiences he’s had with sharks and mantas in other exotic locations. But he told me it’s great for new divers and a cheap place to get certified.

The next day I arrived bleary eyed for our 7am bus to the harbour and met Jeremy - the owner of all five Rainbow dive shops in Vietnam who was visiting for a few days. Once settled on the boat, one of the many instructors Jack explained how things would work. There were some people completing their Open Water certificate, some trying scuba diving for the first time, some snorkelers and some fun divers. And in addition to this, some staff were receiving additional training too.

The management of all this was excellent. My group of four was led by instructor Pedro. We were called to kit up and get wet at the right moment and we saw a lot of coral and fish even though the visibility wasn’t amazing. As we were warming up with a drink and some fruit, we heard the shouts of staged rescues from the trainees. Once at the second site the process was repeated seamlessly and we surfaced to lunch laid out for us.

Mitch was right, the diving was nice. There was a lot of small marine life to see. I loved the big blue star fish and parrot fish. But having experienced mantas and dolphins it’s hard to compare. What I loved most about my experience with Rainbow Divers was the inclusive and supportive atmosphere. One guest had a physical disability and his needs were catered too without any fuss. And there was such a mix of people on board. Kids doing freediving, and interns receiving career development. The inclusivity made the day really enjoyable. I would definitely recommend Nha Trang and Rainbow Divers - especially those looking to get certified or complete Dive Master training. Maybe Nha Trang is missable if you’re tight in time but I enjoyed seeing the city, swimming and running along the beach and had some great veggie food.

Thanks Mitch, Jeremy, Pedro and the team for making my day so good.

Have you dives Vietnam? Let me know what you thought.

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The caves of Phong Nha in two days: Vietnam

14/4/2018

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Before I left on my trip I asked my friends for their favourite spots. It’s always great to get recommendations rather than just following the guidebook. My friend Frankie told me that the caves at Phong Nha were unmissable. “I bloody hope she’s right.” I thought as I staggered from the night bus at 4am. But she was. Here’s how to get the most out of a couple of days at this spectacular place without signing up for a tour.

Don’t stay at Easy Tiger
Famous amongst backpackers, this hostel is the bomb. However, you can enjoy all of its amenities without actually sleeping there. I stayed at Gecko hostel and I could check in and sleep in a bed for free from when I arrived.

Rent a moped or find a friend to give you a ride.
You technically need a license and you definitely need a helmet. The roads are extremely quiet. Check your vehicle over before setting off and make sure you have a number to call if anything goes wrong. (Like it did for me and my gang). We were five people on three mopeds.

Botanic Gardens
The nearest attraction to town. Pay the 4000 dong parking charge and the 40000 dong entrance ticket (total less than $2) and take route two. This is a fairly challenging hike around in a loop through the jungly undergrowth to a waterfall where you can bathe (two shallow to really swim). They told us it would take 1.5hrs but it was quicker than that including a paddle in the pool.

Enjoy the drive to Paradise Cave
This was fun. I am gradually getting more confident on a moped and I loved that I was following my gang so didn’t have to navigate. It meant I could enjoy the breathtaking scenery on the undulating road. The green valleys were beautiful and we saw barely anyone on the roads.

Paradise cave
Pay the parking charge (5000D) and the entrance ticket (250000D). Then have a snack before starting and take a plenty of water. There’s a shuttle golf cart thing that will take you the flat part of the route (or try and run you over, don’t miss the pedestrian path next to it!) but you’ll still have to make your way up the winding ramp. It’s pretty far and you will sweat! But the cool damp air of Paradise Cave as you descend the steps is just reward. We spent a while gazing at the cleverly lit formations and speculating on how long it had taken to form the stalagmites and columns. After a grainy selfie and an unhurried wander back it was time to take the steps back down.

Drive back the long way
If you’ve enjoyed the driving so far you can complete the loop back to town. The road is quiet and scenic, we dodged buffalo and children on bicycles on the 35 minute trip. It got a little busier nearer the town but nothing horrible.

Eat at Bun Cha
This little place just a couple of minutes from Easy Tiger (any hostel) served cheap beer and great food. Jesse and I had vegetarian bun cha. So tasty.

Drink at Easy Tiger
Anyone can buy drinks, listen to the live music and chat.

Day 2

Phong Nha Cave
Join a group heading to the boat tour from Easy Tiger at 10:30. Or hang around at the ticket office which is just a short walk from town. With a boat full of people the total cost each was 190000D. This is a leisurely and relaxing antidote to all the activity the day before. Sit back as the boatmen chug down the river before cutting the engine and paddling you through the cave. You get a chance to get off the boat and wander around too. The cave was similarly awesome as Paradise Cave except with the addition of bats and water. If was nice to see some local life during the river trip too.

We then had lunch at Bamboo Cafe before I took the bus to Hue so that was my whistle-stop cave trip. Anything else I should have done? Comment below.

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Vietnamese cooking class: Hanoi Cooking Centre

9/4/2018

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Eating is pretty important right? We have to do it everyday, and so many memories of places I’ve travelled to have included food - eating fresh mango using my pocketknife at my tiny apartment in Kathmandu when I worked at a children’s home, or eating idly and samba (spongy rice cakes and curry!) with my hand for breakfast in Periyar Tiger Reserve, India.

Cooking classes mean you get a better understanding of what you’re eating and a chance to recreate that at home, so I got in touch with Hanoi Cooking Centre. One of the difficulties of recreating the dishes I made at my class in Hanoi was the availability of exotic ingredients. Chef Y (pronounced Ee) took me and my classmate to the market to see the strange vegetables and fragrant herbs as well as the vast variety of types of rice. I don’t know where I’d get winter melon in Norfolk (not 100% sure what it is tbh...)

Back at the professional kitchen we took our places at the bench and donned our Hanoi Cooking Centre aprons before finely chopping all the ingredients for fresh spring rolls. Y explained that most of the recipes we were making were influenced by the sort of food Buddhist monks eat - as they are strictly vegan, which meant our spring rolls were more elaborate than any I’d eaten. Tofu replaced egg and toasted rice flour added flavour. I can definitely recreate these at home.

Banana flower salad? That’s going to be more difficult. I had no idea that banana flowers were edible. I had never really thought very hard about whether bananas even had flowers come to think of it. Finely chopped, soaked in water and vinegar and then combined with mashed tofu, carrot, fresh herbs, chili, bean sprouts and ground peanuts and sesame seeds - this was my favourite dish.

Y was a good teacher - clear in his instruction and friendly in his explanations. Whilst it was clear he much preferred cooking with meat, he took us through the five different dishes before leading us upstairs to the centre’s stylish restaurant where we ate our hard work and chatted about our food/travel experiences. My classmate had cooked in Thailand and Saigon too and I enjoyed sharing my memories of making momos in Kathmandu.

Even if you don’t love cooking as much as I do then the centre is worth a visit. They have a lovely quiet courtyard and there’s an extremely well-stocked bookshop (everything from cooking to Shakespeare and crime fiction), and of course the food prepared by the professional chefs will be top notch.

If anyone knows where I can get banana flowers in the UK then I’ll make you the salad. Promise!

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Hanoi Street Food Tour, Vietnam

7/4/2018

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You know that feeling of readying yourself. That moment before you push open the door to an important meeting, or before you step off the boat in your scuba gear. When you question what you’re about to do and doubt floods your mind. That’s what it felt like before I left the hostel in Hanoi, Vietnam. Having arrived late at night in a taxi from the airport, I had little idea what to expect from the city. I stepped outside and it smelt like India. It smelt of petrol fumes and dust, and the sound of mopeds and their horns filled the air. As I walked down the street (well mostly in the road - pavements seem to double as moped parks/street food seating/workshops) I saw confusing signs and street food vendors, so many street food options.

Having survived my first outing, and with a slight feel for the place I set off once again, this time to meet Mango (real name Hoai) for a vegetarian street food tour from Hanoi Street Food Tours. I’m so glad I did this on my first day. Before we set off she gave me important instructions about crossing the road - when she says ‘sticky rice’ then I have to stick close to her. “Don’t run, don’t stop just walk slowly.” She informed, that way the 4million motorbikes and mopeds can weave round you. After putting this into practice a couple of times we reached our first food stop for Bun cha ta (pictured above). I was so pleased to have instruction on how to construct a delicious spoonful out of the multiple bowls. First, tare some fresh herbs into the bowl of sauce, add some garlic and chili. Then, after sort of chopping the rice vermicelli with the metal spoon, use chopsticks to put some on the spoon, dip it in the sauce, then top with a piece of deep fried spring roll and stuff it in your mouth! My first taste of Vietnamese food and what amazing flavours!

We chatted about Vietnam, the culinary differences of different regions and about travel before stepping back out into the chaotic streets. I had been anxious about eating veggie in Vietnam. Whilst I try to eat vegan when I can I had already read about how difficult that is here. Dairy isn’t really an issue (too hot for cows here apparently), but fish sauce is used liberally. However, my next meal of Xoi ngo was vegan friendly. Sticky rice with mung bean paste and crispy onions, eaten with pickled cucumber.

Xoi ngo

Great texture combination. And Nom du du - green papaya salad with peanuts and those same fragrant fresh herbs - was vegan friendly too. And the strange texture of the super thin rice pancake banh cuon with some more crispy onions was ok for vegans although cooked on silk. Mien xao chay - arrowroot glass noodles, came with mushrooms and vegetables as well as tofu and egg, and I’m not certain of the ingredients of the sweet donut ( banh ngot) and banana cake thing (banh chuoi)!

As well as bia hoi (street rice beer), happy water (extremely strong rice wine) and banh my (a toasted baguette sandwich), I tried the famous ca phe teung- coffee with sweetened egg - something I won’t rush to drink again. As I staggered with my full stomach and half drunk glass of beer to our final stop, I managed a spoonful of coconut ice cream with both crispy and fresh coconut and warm sticky rice.

Nam du du

Mango had been such an amazing guide. She’d shown me the city sites (temples, the lake and the cathedral) as we chattered constantly like old friends. She had also written me a note in Vietnamese which explains what I don’t eat so I can show it to restaurants and street vendors - a real weight off my mind. Whether you’re vegetarian or not this was a fantastic introduction to the etiquette and complexity of Vietnamese street food as well as a great orientation in this bustling city. DO THIS ON YOUR FIRST DAY HERE! And ask for Mango, she’s the best.

What’s your favourite street food?

Contact the team via their website here Hanoi Street food tour

My note that explains what I don’t eat. So helpful!

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Scuba diving in Hilo, Hawaii with Hilo Ocean Adventures

2/4/2018

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Which Star Wars film was it? A couple of years ago. They didn’t have light sabers. Anyway, there was a moment when the woman (I forget her name) is hanging off a ledge and manages to pull herself up. I think she’s being shot at in an aircraft hanger. But those laser bullets, you know? After watching the film at the cinema (Christmas family outing, bit of a tradition now I guess) I was chatting with my mum and was like “I couldn’t do that. What if there was a rebellion or some kind of apocalyptic situation and I needed to do something like that?” Since then me and my mum have had this running theme that doing something hard or unpleasant but that makes you stronger is rebellion training. Walking the dog in the pouring rain = rebellion training. Walking around an Indian city waiting for the train with heavy bag = rebellion training. Giving your not-so-little-anymore nephew a piggyback for ages while your trousers are nearly falling down= you get the idea.

Thus was my mindset when gearing up for my dives at Hilo Ocean Adventures dive shop. It was raining. And windy. Michelle, Leif and I were in the capable hands of instructor Tyler and Captain Kimo but there was only so much they could do towards making us more comfortable. It was entirely necessary to have our wetsuits on against the rain and spray as we bounced over the grey ocean and tried to learn about the reef we were about the visit. I now feel confident I can assemble my scuba equipment whilst not falling off a small, plunging boat.

This is Hilo bay, but in better weather - not on the day of the dive.

I’m a new diver and it was the first time I’d rolled backwards into the water. My mask came lose as I entered the salty sea. And due to my stress levels I needed more weight to descend. Once down there, the busy life of the reef soon distracted me. Comical trumpet fish and bustling white spotted toby fish darted in and out. Focusing on my buoyancy and my buddies whilst the current bobbed us around meant the time passed quickly. As we attempted our safety stop in the turbulent water Michelle wasn’t feeling too great. My next rebellion training - boarding a bucking boat whilst wearing 14lbs of weight and a scuba tank. I wrapped one arm around the tiny ladder in order to remove my fins whilst being tossed up and down in the water. One of them was jammed on my boot too tightly resulting in some minor gymnastics to let Kimo on the boat wrench it off before being helped upwards and out of the water.

After some snacks and our surface interval we repeated the exercise at a different location. The great thing with two tank dives is the chance to have another crack. Roll backwards and keep mask on = check. Calm descent with right amount of weight = check. Improved buoyancy = check. Green sea turtles? Not this time. I felt very lucky to have made it out with Tyler and Kimo. It was off season and the weather had been bad meaning they hadn’t run many trips and all the sea life I see is still majorly exciting and the thrill of breathing underwater is still incredible.

Thanks to Tyler’s calm instruction and Kimo’s expert boat handling and fin-pulling skills we had a safe and fun time. I can’t recommend HOA enough. The kit I used was the best rental gear I’ve had and I learnt a lot about diving in less than favourable conditions. They have an on-site pool for you to complete all aspects of your scuba certification and you’ll get access to the amazing wonders of Hawaii’s oceans. Book with them and tell them I sent you. Not into diving? Try whale watching or snorkelling. Or even swimming lessons, and fingers crossed for the weather. Visit them at hilooceanadventures.com

Anyone know the name of the film?!

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Seeing Kampot from above: adventuring with Climbodia

Diving with Rainbow Divers in Nha Trang

The caves of Phong Nha in two days: Vietnam

Vietnamese cooking class: Hanoi Cooking Centre

Hanoi Street Food Tour, Vietnam

Scuba diving in Hilo, Hawaii with Hilo Ocean Adventures

Hannah the traveller

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