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Crewing a Tall Ship: Scottish Isles on Blue Clipper

1/8/2023

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Picture
Guests returning to Blue Clipper on the dinghy after a trip to the Bridge over the Atlantic.
I was hugely excited to join the crew of Blue Clipper - a tall ship which is currently sailing around the West Coast of Scotland. When people asked me before I went what exactly I would be doing, I wasn’t really too sure myself. Here is an account of my time onboard, the amazing wildlife I saw, people I met and things I learnt. Spoiler alert: I learnt A LOT!


The journey from Edinburgh to Oban via Glasgow isn’t a fast one, but it’s stunningly beautiful. The train line meanders along the coast of lochs, with views of mountains and little waterfalls, stopping at fantastically named stations - Arrochar & Tarbet, Tyndrum Lower and Falls of Cruachan.

Picture
Sail's up, let's go!
The three masts of Blue Clipper were instantly visible through the drizzle that greeted me. As the Maybe Sailing website explains, Blue Clipper is just over 30 years old and is a gaff rig schooner (this means the sails go forwards to backwards with wooden parts at the top and bottom), with three masts and nine sails. She can sleep a maximum of 30 people in crew and guest accommodation, with a comfy saloon (for meals and relaxing) and compact galley (for the professional chef Alex to work his magic).


I joined on a Sunday, when guests had just left and the last of the tidying was being done. That meant I had an opportunity for an introduction to the ship as well as some relaxed time with the crew - a mixture of paid professionals and experienced volunteers. By the time the guests joined I had practised some emergency drills, and helped make beds, clean and tidy.

Picture
Sunset colours anchors off Mull.
As a scuba diver and kayaker I had some transferable skills applicable to sailing - however, all the other volunteer crew had more experience than me. As we welcomed the first of the guests onboard, it was like learning a new language. Thankfully my crew mates were kind and patient, explaining about halliards, backstays, how to coil a line, what a shackle is and much more. The role of a deckhand is to both help with the sailing part of things, but also to take care of the paying guests. Making tea, washing up, laying the tables and chatting were one part of the job I felt more comfortable in. 


Scottish weather - not famous for being sunny and warm, yet on both trips around the Isle of Mull, sunshine outweighed rain by far. This meant that we had plenty of time on deck to spot wildlife, and the conditions were perfect for us to land on my new favourite island - Lunga.

One of the Treshnish Isles, Lunga is a breeding ground for Puffins! The cute and confident birds line the path, stretch their little wings, take off and clumsily land again all without a care for the dozens of tourists looking on.

As fellow deckhand and professional wildlife guide Viky pointed out - there are other birds. Lunga is also home to Shags - large, dark feathered and green-eyed - are far more suspicious of the human visitors. The rock stack at the far end of the path hosts a screaming competition with Kittiwakes being among the noisiest.

Did you know: baby puffins are called pufflings, and the collective term for a group of puffins is called a circus.


Picture
Confident puffins on Lunga
I soon fell into the routine of the ship. A couple of hours each night were my anchor watch shift - taking readings to ensure we were staying safely where we should be. Then helping serve breakfast or donning a harness to untie the sail ties in readiness for the day of sailing. How it all works eventually becomes logical - lines are either hauled or eased to make the sail go up, and then the same lines have to be eased and hauled to reverse the action. The boat looked stunning when we had six of the nine sails up, with no noise except the lap of the sea against our hull.


Other stops during my two weeks included Iona, where I had time to photograph the Abbey and run up a hill and back down for some stunning views.

Did you know I've been published by Iona books? I contributed two short stories to an anthology called Refugees from Eden which is available here.


We also stopped at Ulva, where the lovely sheltered bay had us enjoying paddleboarding, mast climbing, and jumping off the ship. (Yes I did jump, yes it was cold!). Then there was Seil - where a mysterious path leads to the Bridge over the Atlantic, an arched stone bridge which spans the ocean from the island to the mainland.

Tobermory was a favourite stop too. Through some excellent steering from skipper Jack, and some professional crewing from Jan, Andy and I, we moored elegantly in the harbour. Not only did mooring mean no anchor watch, but the buzzing local pub was busy with locals, frequent visitors and live music. 


Picture
What's the story in Tobermory?
Being a deckhand on Blue Clipper was hard work. Early mornings, night shifts, heavy pulling and lifting, endless washing up - but it was extremely rewarding. To feel part of a crew working for the same goal, to see the stunning scenery, watch dolphins play at the bow of the boat and spot a minke whale and meet new and interesting people was truly special. 


Top tips: 

1. Before volunteering on a tall ship I recommend gaining some experience, either in sailing small boats, joining Maybe Sailing’s traineeship
or in other, non-sailing boats. 


2. Know your knots - I can’t even guess how many kilometres of rope there are on Blue Clipper, and that rope needs securing, attaching, moving, etc. Quickly being able to tie a variety of knots is essential. 

3. Bring waterproofs, enthusiasm and energy!

Are you tempted to crew a tall ship? Or have you already done it and have other tips to share? Comment below!


Picture
Bottlenose Dophin - one of many that came to play at the bow of the boat.
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