You know that feeling of readying yourself. That moment before you push open the door to an important meeting, or before you step off the boat in your scuba gear. When you question what you’re about to do and doubt floods your mind. That’s what it felt like before I left the hostel in Hanoi, Vietnam. Having arrived late at night in a taxi from the airport, I had little idea what to expect from the city. I stepped outside and it smelt like India. It smelt of petrol fumes and dust, and the sound of mopeds and their horns filled the air. As I walked down the street (well mostly in the road - pavements seem to double as moped parks/street food seating/workshops) I saw confusing signs and street food vendors, so many street food options.
Having survived my first outing, and with a slight feel for the place I set off once again, this time to meet Mango (real name Hoai) for a vegetarian street food tour from Hanoi Street Food Tours. I’m so glad I did this on my first day. Before we set off she gave me important instructions about crossing the road - when she says ‘sticky rice’ then I have to stick close to her. “Don’t run, don’t stop just walk slowly.” She informed, that way the 4million motorbikes and mopeds can weave round you. After putting this into practice a couple of times we reached our first food stop for Bun cha ta (pictured above). I was so pleased to have instruction on how to construct a delicious spoonful out of the multiple bowls. First, tare some fresh herbs into the bowl of sauce, add some garlic and chili. Then, after sort of chopping the rice vermicelli with the metal spoon, use chopsticks to put some on the spoon, dip it in the sauce, then top with a piece of deep fried spring roll and stuff it in your mouth! My first taste of Vietnamese food and what amazing flavours!
We chatted about Vietnam, the culinary differences of different regions and about travel before stepping back out into the chaotic streets. I had been anxious about eating veggie in Vietnam. Whilst I try to eat vegan when I can I had already read about how difficult that is here. Dairy isn’t really an issue (too hot for cows here apparently), but fish sauce is used liberally. However, my next meal of Xoi ngo was vegan friendly. Sticky rice with mung bean paste and crispy onions, eaten with pickled cucumber.
Having survived my first outing, and with a slight feel for the place I set off once again, this time to meet Mango (real name Hoai) for a vegetarian street food tour from Hanoi Street Food Tours. I’m so glad I did this on my first day. Before we set off she gave me important instructions about crossing the road - when she says ‘sticky rice’ then I have to stick close to her. “Don’t run, don’t stop just walk slowly.” She informed, that way the 4million motorbikes and mopeds can weave round you. After putting this into practice a couple of times we reached our first food stop for Bun cha ta (pictured above). I was so pleased to have instruction on how to construct a delicious spoonful out of the multiple bowls. First, tare some fresh herbs into the bowl of sauce, add some garlic and chili. Then, after sort of chopping the rice vermicelli with the metal spoon, use chopsticks to put some on the spoon, dip it in the sauce, then top with a piece of deep fried spring roll and stuff it in your mouth! My first taste of Vietnamese food and what amazing flavours!
We chatted about Vietnam, the culinary differences of different regions and about travel before stepping back out into the chaotic streets. I had been anxious about eating veggie in Vietnam. Whilst I try to eat vegan when I can I had already read about how difficult that is here. Dairy isn’t really an issue (too hot for cows here apparently), but fish sauce is used liberally. However, my next meal of Xoi ngo was vegan friendly. Sticky rice with mung bean paste and crispy onions, eaten with pickled cucumber.
Xoi ngo
Great texture combination. And Nom du du - green papaya salad with peanuts and those same fragrant fresh herbs - was vegan friendly too. And the strange texture of the super thin rice pancake banh cuon with some more crispy onions was ok for vegans although cooked on silk. Mien xao chay - arrowroot glass noodles, came with mushrooms and vegetables as well as tofu and egg, and I’m not certain of the ingredients of the sweet donut ( banh ngot) and banana cake thing (banh chuoi)!
As well as bia hoi (street rice beer), happy water (extremely strong rice wine) and banh my (a toasted baguette sandwich), I tried the famous ca phe teung- coffee with sweetened egg - something I won’t rush to drink again. As I staggered with my full stomach and half drunk glass of beer to our final stop, I managed a spoonful of coconut ice cream with both crispy and fresh coconut and warm sticky rice.
As well as bia hoi (street rice beer), happy water (extremely strong rice wine) and banh my (a toasted baguette sandwich), I tried the famous ca phe teung- coffee with sweetened egg - something I won’t rush to drink again. As I staggered with my full stomach and half drunk glass of beer to our final stop, I managed a spoonful of coconut ice cream with both crispy and fresh coconut and warm sticky rice.
Nam du du
Mango had been such an amazing guide. She’d shown me the city sites (temples, the lake and the cathedral) as we chattered constantly like old friends. She had also written me a note in Vietnamese which explains what I don’t eat so I can show it to restaurants and street vendors - a real weight off my mind. Whether you’re vegetarian or not this was a fantastic introduction to the etiquette and complexity of Vietnamese street food as well as a great orientation in this bustling city. DO THIS ON YOUR FIRST DAY HERE! And ask for Mango, she’s the best.
What’s your favourite street food?
Contact the team via their website here Hanoi Street food tour
What’s your favourite street food?
Contact the team via their website here Hanoi Street food tour
My note that explains what I don’t eat. So helpful!
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