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Volcanic explorations: Hiking in Volcano National Park, Hawaii.

31/3/2018

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My first introduction to this astounding phenomenon was in the dark. Driving towards Kilauea crater we could see the red glow in the distance. Entering the Volcano National Park area we drove to the viewing area where the steam above the crater was illuminated by the bubbling lava beneath. We could even hear the distant roar of moving magma.


The next day, in the bright sunshine, we set off to explore more of the park. The visitors’ centre gives detailed information about the history of the island which only exists because of the volcanic activity. We walked through a lava tube - a cylindrical cave formed by former lava flows. Then we commenced our hike. The clearly marked Kilauea Iki Rim hike starts with narrow paths through forest to the floor of the frozen crater. Reaching the barren expanse of black lava rock is extraordinary. The shapes of the lava flows make weird shapes and patterns. Walking across the bottom of the crater gave us a sense of scale, we were tiny figures in an enormous bowl of eroded rock.
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Reaching the other side and hiking steeply up we paused for some lunch on a handy bench before detouring down another trail for views of the active crater billowing in the distance. The return journey was once again through forest with giant ferns and noisy birds.

We spent the rest of the day exploring Chain of Craters Road. The clue is in the name, there are loads of former craters to view from the road which winds through old lava flows. We hiked for another couple of kilometres to view an area of petroglyphs- drawings made by generations of indigenous Hawaiians by scratching away the top layer of lava rock. The road ends at the ocean where we could see a naturally occurring sea arch formed by the battering waves. The changing landscape in just a few miles of road is remarkable, and the weather that does with the volcano is quickly changeable.


We topped off our intrepid day with a meal at Lava House - a lodge in the park. We were lucky enough to have a crater-view table, and could gaze at the glowing crater as we ate.


Hawaii is truly unique. There are so many trails to explore in the National Park including campsites to stay at overnight. You can’t visit the Big Island without experiencing this special place and it’s awesome display of nature’s power. And we weren’t finished with it yet.
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The day after our crater hike we went on a live lava hunt. The area to the south of the crater is very active with lava, which is sometimes flowing into the sea. We learnt where to find the lava from the people at the bike hire place. They shuttle you from the car park and then give you everything you need. Our fabulous yellow, low-tech steeds took us the 30 minute cycle down the gravel road until we could go no further, then we stepped onto the frozen lava. This black rock is so new that it crunches underfoot. The different patterns and shapes are mesmerising, especially as you have to watch every step in the uneven ground. It was hard work hiking up the slope and we weren’t certain of where we were going. Until we felt the temperature rise. The breeze from one direction was significantly warmer than from the other. And then we could see the bright shapes. A few other people were hanging around as close as they could manage to different patches of slowly moving lava. We sat and ate our hummus rolls watching the sunlight fade and the brightness of the lava intensify. Small flows grew bigger and more spectacular as we gazed on, watching new rock being created.


Hiking for an hour and a half back, using head torches in the complete blackness, was tough. Thanks to gps and iPhones we rejoined our banana bikes and with tired legs cycled back. Dust from the gravel road stuck to sweaty faces on the mostly up hill journey and it was such a relief to see the lights of the bike hire stalls. The effort increased the awesomeness of our achievement. Our intrepid and adventurous expedition meant we had seen actual lava flowing from the earth. Truly unforgettable.
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Getting to know the locals: Kamehameha Canoe Club, Hilo, Hawaii

27/3/2018

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It’s extraordinary to think of settlers arriving to Hawaii. It’s literally in the middle of the ocean with no other land for miles and miles. But somehow brave explorers landed on these volcanic shores - and the very first human inhabitants arrived by canoe. Until the influence of European settlers, canoes we’re still used for inter-island travel as well as localised fishing and transport. These very simple vessels are much narrower and longer than their Canadian counterparts, and have an ama or outrigger or are double-hulled (like two canoes attaches together) for added stability in the churning seas. Rather like rowing teams in other parts of the world, teams of 6 people power each boat (12 in a double hull) with the added bonus of actually seeing where you’re going as paddlers face forward. No longer used for transportation, the popularity of canoeing has far from waned, as can been seen with a short walk along the bay front in the quiet town of Hilo on the Big Island, where rows of boats and huts line the shore. And it was this shoreline and one of these huts that I approached on a soggy Tuesday evening. With only vague email contact with the Kamehameha Canoe Club, I wasn’t entirely sure that they were expecting me to visit. Which they weren’t. And the club secretary, who had emailed me, wasn’t in attendance as it was a night for men’s practice. Nevertheless, I introduced myself to Kenika and explained I wanted to find out more about these unique boats. Before I knew it, head coach Stanley Cann was efficiently directing everyone to kit up and launch the canoes.


“You can swim right?” Asked Kenika as I swiftly filled in a waiver form and found a paddle the right size. Next thing I know, I’m thigh deep in the warm sea helping to launch the double hull. It was definitely a ‘learn by doing’ approach. My previous experience in rafts and kayaks in the uk and elsewhere was useful in the technique of paddling. However, something entirely new was the synchronised change of sides. A shout from Stan at the front, echoed by everyone else gives you the order to switch your paddle to the other side. Something like this:
Coach “heh”
Everyone “heh”
Everyone “hah” and then switch. But in time with the collective stroke rate, meaning you have to gently throw your own paddle in front of you to switch hands. (It was definitely easier to watch and learn than try and write it down!)


As the rain began to fall more heavily, we made swift progress towards to outer wall of Hilo Bay. We practiced different stroke lengths and speeds on the clear and firm instruction of coach Stan. My changes were getting better and it felt great to be part of a strong and synchronised team moving quickly through the water. The most alarming part of the practice was when paddlers from the single hull switched with paddlers in the double hull. This involved jumping into the sea and swimming between the boats to the (hopefully) jokes about the sea monsters that might eat the swimmers. (Don’t worry mum, I didn’t switch boats!)


When we had brought the canoes back up to land I had a moment to chat with a couple of my fellow paddlers before a few sets of pushups and crunches. The club was gearing up for the regatta season, with races ranging from a couple of miles to races of 40 plus miles taking 4 or 5 hours. Members of the club take training seriously and are required to come to practice two or three times a weeks as well as cross-train in their own time. “Well we want to win don’t we?!” Said Kenika. Having said that, the club is open to anyone who wants to have a go, with around 150 active members. Kids’ practice is available every day with adults afterwards.
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As I squelched my way to the car in my wet clothes I reflected on what a great opportunity I’d had. The kind and welcoming team had given me a little glimpse at history and a tiny insight into how those first, intrepid settlers could have made their miraculous journey. Mahalo Stan, Kenika and everyone at Kamehameha Canoe Club for this unique experience. And a huge thank you for letting me use your pictures - my dark and wet ones don’t quite do the job.


Find out more about the club at their website.
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A dream come true (sorry to make you jealous): swimming with dolphins in Hawaii

24/3/2018

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I thought swimming with dolphins was a kind of romantic myth that only actually happened in movies. But no. I actually did it. Sunlight on Water - a specialist company based in Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii - made this dream a reality. I met the boat at the harbour, 15 minutes drive north of the town, where the crew Steve, Gary and Captain Josh efficiently signed in and welcomed everyone. There were about 20 of us on the open boat and I got to sit near the front. After a safety briefing, which included a strong emphasis on keeping the sea life safe, we bounced off over the beautiful blue ocean.


We slowed to a stop as the crew had spotted something. A huge dark shape just below the surface of the water. It was a manta ray. I knew all about these 12 feet wide creatures from my previous night’s activity scuba diving with these majestic beings. Not long later we slowed again. Someone had spotted a whale in the distance. We were too slow to see it though, whales come to the surface to breathe but can dive for up to an hour on one breath.
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The next time we start to slow there’s a rush as people hurry to put on their snorkel gear. It’s spinner dolphins up ahead. Shuffling to the back of the boat in my fins, mask and snorkel I’m nervous and excited. I’ve never really snorkelled before without wearing scuba equipment. I slide in gracelessly at the back of the boat and splash after Steve our guide. The water is amazingly clear, I could see small fish diving in and out of the coral below. Brightly coloured bigger fish were nibbling seriously and darting around. Then ahead of me and below I see the first of a pod of 12 spinners. They were less than 10 metres below me and this pod had a baby dolphin sticking close to its mother. Wow! But that wasn’t it. The same pod circled around to have another look at us. As I tried to calmly float at the surface they came nearer and nearer until they were within touching distance


(never touch sea creatures guys, it’s harmful to them and bloody rude really).


Just as we thought they’d moved on, another group came over, some jumping out of the water and giving us a close inspection. Climbing back aboard the boat we all chattered excitedly about what we’d seen as we ate the ample snacks provided by Sunlight on water. But we had time to track down more dolphins and get in the water again. Passing close to the boat we didn’t have to swim far before we were surrounded. It was truly exhilarating to be that close to such beautiful and intelligent beings.
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On the boat ride back, whilst munching on fresh pineapple, I chatted with Jemma Prittie, a fellow Brit and dolphin enthusiast who organises retreats to the Big Island. “What I love is the unique experience that everyone has with the dolphins. Each day is different - the colour of the sea, the behaviour of the dolphins. But also each person on the same trip has their own special experience.” And she’s right. Her guests Steph and Tom were on their second trip in as many days and were equally thrilled after their second trip.

Chatting to the crew I learnt what had brought them to be dolphin guides. In the case of both Steve and Gary it had been the island’s scientific interest, both for its unique environments and for its telescopes. Gary said, “I used to work in that building right there. I could look out of the wind and see the boats going by looking for dolphins. When the grant period ended on my project I knew I wanted to get out on those boats.”
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I jumped ashore in the blazing sunshine with my heart and mind still racing from the experience. Seeing the spinners dolphins in their own environment, on their terms, is very humbling. It puts the place of humans into perspective as well as acting as a reminder of the damage we are continuing to do to the oceans of our planet and the impact that can have. There are many rules and regulations which protect Hawaii’s unique flora and fauna but there are still problems with litter in the ocean.


I can’t thank Sunlight on water enough for this life affirming experience. They were professional, friendly, helpful, had great snacks and drinks and provided much needed sunscreen! They also take amazing underwater photos and post them on their Facebook page free of charge - the photos here are theirs. But above all had the safety of the animals as top priority allowing a respectful relationship with the playful dolphins to flourish. I wholeheartedly recommend their services for any marine adventure in Kona. Contact them directly via sunlightonwater.com and mention Hannah the traveller when you do!
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Finding Narnia: a secret hike in Hawaii

13/3/2018

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Narnia Falls, Hilo, Hawaii
I could hear it before I could see it. As I hiked down a gentle slope towards an opening in the trees the noise grew louder. The continuous thundering rush of gallons and gallons of water pouring down multiple waterfalls. White foam starkly contrasting against the black, shiny lava rock that makes up the riverbed of Hawaii’s second longest river.


I had apparently found Narnia.


I was staying with friends in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii when I asked for advice about what to do with my day. My friend dropped a pin on a map and said “that’s the way to Narnia”. I googled it and found some very vague and conflicting directions about where to go to find the start of this secret trail known locally as Narnia, but went along to have a look. After a short walk at the side of a quiet road I came to a turning with a chain across the entrance and a bold yellow sign reading DEAD END. Others had clearly skirted the chain and proceeded down the road, just as I did now. It definitely looked like a dead end until, right at the back I saw a muddy track leading steeply upwards. “I can always turn back”, I thought as I squelched my way up in the drizzle. Still skeptical about what I was doing and mostly watching my footing to avoid the worst puddles, I was surprised when the path suddenly flattened and opened out to a wide, stony track in the middle of a forest. The wet palm trees and vines looked just the part for a journey to another world. I was through the wardrobe.

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As I walked briskly along with peaceful track it seemed impossible to imagine the roads and houses of the sleepy town of Hilo. I was surrounded by greenery on all sides and entirely alone with the sounds of nature. Coming to a junction of paths I had to decide. Chance (and a vague sense of direction) took me towards the Wailuku River which had been such a feature of my previous adventures too. It’s easy to imagine Hina - mother of demigod Maui - and the antics of giant lizard Kuna whose stories intertwine with the life of the island and the water.


Turning my back on the water and retracing my steps I smiled to myself, pleased that I had found this secret spot despite the lack of information and the rain. As the drizzle turned heavier I couldn’t help but be grateful and proud to be in such an amazing place.



Want to find Narnia too? Message me using the Contact Form (not via a comment, I can't reply to you then) with why you want to visit and I’ll give you some clues!
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Los Angeles: a cheap and active day!

7/3/2018

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I’m going to be honest. I didn’t think I’d like LA. I thought it would be overpriced, full of traffic and pretentious wannabe actors and I would find nothing to interest me. I was wrong!

One of my favourite things was the tour up to the Hollywood sign from my hostel (USA hostel downtown) but you could easily do this yourself.

  • Take the 210 Dash bus from the corner of Hollywood and Vine heading north. This costs 50c.
  • Get off at the last stop and walk up hill. You can’t get lost.
  • You’ll reach a place with a tape across the road - this is to stop vehicles, feel free to duck underneath.
  • You can see the sign!! On this trail there are several spots to get a picture with the sign. Don’t go climbing too far though, its against the law to go off the paths.



After a selfie session you can now walk to the Griffith Observatory. It’s about an hour and 20 to get there and the trails are well signed. Take plenty of water on a sunny day and enjoy the peace and quiet up in the hills. Griffith Observatory is free to enter and has really interesting displays about space and telescopes. And there are great views of downtown LA from there. Check their website for special events before you go.


Take the bus back from the Observatory. You’ll get dropped at the metro station and it’s just a few stops back to Hollywood and Vine. Alternatively find a couple of friends and take an Uber or Lyft for about $9.

Plan your trip for a Tuesday and get $1 tacos at Calle Tacos when you get back!

Send me your selfies if you do this!!
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    Hannah the traveller

    is a travel and lifestyle blog with focus on running, vegan eating and of course global travel.

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