Category: Adventuring

Riding for women: Sponsored 100km Bike Ride

19/8/2021

Afghanischer Frauenverein - Afghan Women's Association.

The events in Afghanistan, and the implications that the Taliban rule will have on women and girls, are extremely worrying. Access to education and employment opportunities are just the start of the problems.

***** UPDATE! We did it! Here's the instagram post to prove it.

So we thought we'd try to do something about it. Stephanie and I are going to do a 100 km bike ride in aid of Afghanischer Frauenverein (Afghan Women's Association).

About the Ride - Saturday 28th August

The Radbahn Münsterland is a cycle path in Northern Germany. It follows an old railway line, from Coesfeld to Rheine - with Steinfurt (where we live) right in the middle. So we plan to cycle the whole thing twice - from the middle to one end and home again, and then to the other end and home again. This will be a total of 100 km, and we get to have lunch at home!

100 km on the Radbahn Münsterland will be a challenge - we're just 25 km in in this photo.

About the Organisation

The Afghan Women's Association have been working in Afghanistan since 1992. They work in remote areas to provide life necessities like clean water to drink, as well as providing education opportunities. All whilst ensuring local people are involved, the projects are run by 190 local people. They are a registered organisation in Germany.

Right now they are focusing on emergency response.

We're aiming to raise €/£500 to support people who are now displaced. You can read more about this fund-raising project here, but here is an extract:

"244,000 people, most of them women with small children, have been fleeing the escalating violence in the country since the withdrawal of international troops from Afghanistan in May 2021 and are desperately seeking protection between the fronts. On August 10th alone, 20,000 refugees from the disputed areas of Kunduz, Baglan, Tachar and Badachschan reached the city of Kabul. Most of them have been able to save nothing but the clothes they wear. Everything is missing: drinking water, food, shelter, hygiene options, protection and medical care."

Stephanie and I are both feeling devastated by the news footage.

We have met people who fled exactly for the reasons we are now seeing. And our friends from Afghanistan have shared with us how scared they are for remaining friends and family members, as well as how sad they are for their country.

But we are both excited to be doing something, as well as having an adventure. I've never cycled that far in one day. And our longest training ride was just over 50 km, so it will certainly be a challenge.

Please donate to this excellent organisation.

You can do so via THIS LINK. And then we'd love it if you posted a comment here to let us know and wish us luck. We aren't able to track the donations directly, so if you fancied letting us know how much you donated so that we can feel smug, that would be great too.

If you are in the UK, you can also sigh THIS PETITION to call for the UK government to show compassion to asylum seekers.

We're ready! Hannah and Stephanie kitted out for their 100 km bike ride.

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A tale of two cities: Bosnia’s Bihac and Banja Luka

26/5/2021

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What do you know about Bosnia? Do you know about the stunning scenery and national park? Or the highlights of a tour of the second city? Keep reading for some vegan food-porn too!

Historic city centres and beautiful hiking trails, the Balkan country of Bosnia and Herzegovina holds much to interest and inspire, yet remains far from the top of most people’s must-go holiday destinations. The turbulent history of this former Yugoslavian country makes it a fascinating place to visit - capital Sarajevo is the main draw, hosting western European backpackers in the quaint cafes of the Old Town, but there’s far more to the country than this.

Bihac is the northernmost city in Bosnia and is located in the Federation - predominantly Bosniac muslims inhabit this area. When arriving overland from Croatia, the spires of churches are replaced by the minarets of mosques. Bullet holes are still visible in the buildings from the war which finished in the 1990s, yet Bihac is eager for tourists.

On first arriving in the city, explore the main square. The cafe-lined and traffic-free Bosanka is a favourite hangout of friendly locals. Stop off for a mali espresso and a chat before continuing to the ancient Fethija Mosque. Originally built as a church in 1266 before being converted to a mosque in 1592, it is the oldest gothic building in the country. It’s quiet location makes it a peaceful place to stop and think awhile.

Not far from here is the pristine River Una, the pride of the city. A view of the crystal clear waters can be enjoyed from the city centre park, or from Cafe H2O on the other side of town.

The city is attractive, but the countryside is the main reason to come. Short hiking trails start in the city to the hill-top fort, but to really see the beauty of the scenery, you need to head to the Una Sana National Park. The famous waterfall Martin Brod is an hour’s drive, but the stunning cascades of Strbacki Buk are closer and can be reached by a pleasant hiking route or by car. Just be sure to stick to the obvious trails. Warning signs for landmines are another stark reminder of the recent conflict.

If just seeing the water isn’t enough, why not get closer?! Rafting companies can easily be found in Bihac who will take care of all your needs for an exciting day on the water.

Banja Luka is Bosnia’s second largest city, and the capital of Republica Srpska. This area is claimed by ethnic Serbs - Orthodox Christianty dominates the city. The modern Cathedral stands in a trendy pedestrian zone where glassy shop fronts lead towards the ruined fortress.

Before you set off to hike up to the war memorial in Tresnjik Park, ensure you stock up on cakes and pastries for the journey. Vegans rejoice! The fasting traditions of the Orthodox church mean that there are plenty of baked goods which are free from animal products. If you can’t see the label for Posno, just ask. Mouthwatering cream cakes with praline centres and buttery croissants are all cruelty free.

With regular bus connections to Sarajevo from both cities, and to Croatia from Bihac, BiH isn’t too hard to get to. Better is to hire a car and enjoy the road trip in this intriguing and beautiful country.

How much does this make you want to visit? It's really interesting writing from a tourism perspective like this, without a single mention of the refugee crisis.

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Fasting in Ramadan: Friendship and Gratitude

20/5/2021

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Calais, France in May 2020

Last year, during Ramadan, I lived in France. I was staying with some people who are Muslim and were fasting during the daytime, before preparing lovely evening meals which I was invited to. So I took the opportunity to join them in fasting for a few days.

In May last year in France, sunset wasn’t until after 9:30pm. That’s a looong time to go without food. I picked a day when I would be quite busy with voluntary work and accepted that it would be a challenge. I didn’t find it too difficult to sit with the other volunteers while they were eating lunch, I was mindful that I had chosen to do this and that avoiding the world isn’t really the spirit of it.

Dinner that evening was wonderful. My housemates had prepared a lovely meal, nicely laid out on the table with dates, juice, bread and a vegetable lentil dish. The final hour had been mentally hard as my stomach growled knowing that I would eat soon, but the tastes of the food and the companionship with my friends was certainly worth it.

Lovely iftar food!

This year I was in Bosnia for most of Ramadan. I was volunteering with No Name Kitchen. My friends who were sleeping rough in the city, refugees from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran and elsewhere, were fasting despite the difficult living conditions. I talked with a lot of people about what it was like, and many people told me that they are used to it. They’ve grown up with the fasting tradition. But the words of one of my closer friends struck me the most.

“We’re used to going without food. Sometimes we will have two or three days when we can’t eat anything, fasting during the day is no problem.”

I chose not to fast while I was working in Bihac. We had long, exhausting days, and I didn’t want to affect the work we were doing when people were counting on us to help. But once I had returned to Germany I fasted for a couple of days. I found it refreshing. It helped me realise (not for the first time) how lucky I am to have access to any food I want almost all the time.

The freedoms of a Western European life start at the basics - access to food and water, the most basic of human rights.

My Muslim friends, who are still stuck in Bosnia, were very happy to hear that I had fasted with them for a short time. It was a pleasure to be able to have something in common, despite our lives being so different.

We talked about next year, that we will be able to celebrate together when they have reached safe places.

To show support for people stranded in Bosnia, donate to No Name Kitchen here.

Do you fast for Ramadan? If not, would you try it? Comment below.

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Five Podcasts That Are Worth Listening To

19/1/2021

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I love a good podcast. I tend to listen to them while I’m driving or on a long run. It’s a great way to keep informed about changing trends, in-depth news features as well as learning new things and simply being entertained. Topics can range from comedy shows, to geeky, specialised content on every imaginable subject.

In this strange corona-time, news outlets seem concerned only with the C-word, so I’ve enjoyed listening to content about the world outside of our own bubble and staying informed about interesting and important issues.

Here are five of my favourites.

Worldwide Tribe Podcast

“The podcast that will take you on a journey across the world…without you having to go anywhere!”

Podcast presenter Jaz O’Hara is an engaging host with first hand experience of the things that she’s talking about. She talks to people affected by the migration crisis, people living in camps and those involved in helping in various ways, from policy-makers to field volunteers.

I’ve particularly enjoyed the episode with Lord Alf Dubs. His fascinating personal story prefixed detail about the Dubs Amendment - an addition to the Brexit Bill which would have ensured that unaccompanied child refugees could be reunited with family members in the UK.

Coffee Break Academy

There are no excuses to have a go at learning a new language these days. I’ve had a go a Spanish, Arabic, Serbo-Croatian-Bosnia, French and German. Duolingo is my go-to app which I use alongside Coffee Break Podcasts. They are easy to listen to, each episode focuses on just a small topic and they progress quite slowly.

They do Espresso Shots of thirty-one languages, as well as the 20-30 minute regular show which discuss grammar as well cultural aspects.

Bist du bereit? Los gehts!

Jane Goodall’s Hopecast

“For a woman who defied the odds to change the world, Jane has lived a life propelled by hope. But it is not enough to expect something to happen, or to desire it. You must have confidence in the future, take action and trust – trust of yourself and in others.”

This is a new podcast series with the wonderful Dr Jane Goodall. Her long life of raising awareness of the human impact on the natural world has led her to meet numerous interesting and inspirational people. We could definitely all use a dose of hope right now.

Overheard at National Geographic

This is a great series about random interesting things. From ‘The tree at the end of a world’ to ‘Scuba diving in a pyramid’ the lighthearted style is fun, but you’ll certainly learn stuff!

I particularly enjoyed ‘The Glass Stratosphere’, about women being allowed to be among the first astronauts to the moon.

Living Adventurously

I feel like Al Humphreys is my friend, we share similar attitudes and restlessness I think. His idea of having 'microadventures' in whatever spare time you had, is now a mainstream term and his publications and mad ideas are inspired!

His podcast series started when he was spending a month cycling around Yorkshire. His point being that, there are multiple definitions of how to ‘live adventurously’. Some of the people he interviews have completed global physical challenges, as Al himself has, but others find their adventure by becoming immersed in their local community.

What are you listening to? And why do you like it? Comment below with any other suggestions for me.

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The minimalist life: How backpacking made me tidier

7/12/2020

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My trusty black bag, complete with my scallop shell pendant from the Camino de Santiago and ribbons I've picked up along the way.

I have always been untidy. I had a pretty big bedroom growing up, with plenty of storage space for clothes, toys and school stuff. Yet I’d still end up with a pile of books next to my bed - usually half read, or lined up to be read next - and clothes covering the floor (all the better to see what you’ve got!). But I seem to be changing…

I’ve spent the last 4 or 5 years being largely nomadic. I cleared out the clutter, packed up some things into storage (thanks to Mum’s garage) and took with me only what I really needed. That first big trip to India, I had a sizable backpack stuffed full, plus another bag as a day pack. Well, who knows what you’re going to need during 4 months in a strange land? But it wasn’t long before I got fed up with carrying bags! In fact, as soon as I got to my cousin’s lofty Mumbai flat, I crammed the contents of the small backpack into the bigger bag so I only had one to carry.

Delicious sweets at the market in Kozhikode.

There was one particular day that I bemoaned my big bag the most. I was in Kozhikode in the southern state of Kerala. I had found my way from the bus station to the train station amidst the crazy traffic of retro cars and horses pulling carts but I had ages before the train that would take me to the city of Kochi. There was nowhere to leave bags at the station, so I stubbornly explored the fascinating market with my enormous bag. Sweaty, tired and a little bit cross, I remember giving up and sitting at the station for well over an hour - all thanks to my heavy belongings.

So the next trip I took, I was determined to take less stuff. Encouraged by my budget flight, which charged for hold bags, I packed hand luggage only. My black rucksack was meticulously packed so that everything just fitted in. It was great! I didn’t have to wait at baggage reclaim when I landed at LAX, and I could dash around downtown Hollywood with all my stuff. And who needs much clothing in Hawaii?? Ok I had to wash my few t-shirts pretty frequently thanks to Hilo’s humid climate, but walking up and down the beachfront in Kona waiting for the right time for the airport bus was still enjoyable even with all my stuff.

Near the end of the world - Finisterre, the end of the Camino, beyond Santiago.

I love that black bag. It’s walked the Camino de Santiago with me, travelled Peru, Bolivia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand as well as Mexico. The only problem with it is that it packs only from the top, meaning you have to take EVERYTHING out to find the thing at the bottom. Yes, I got used to packing pajamas and wash-bag at the top, but there were frequent occasions when my bunk in the hostel was covered in all my belongings. And this is how things get lost… I had this great t-shirt that I loved from Tribe Nutrition (an awesome, conscious, sports nutrition brand. Check them out here!). It was quite new, cotton and I used it to sleep in. However, it was the same colour as the sheets in the hostel and I left it behind somewhere in Mexico.

Happily I’ve not lost many things whilst globetrotting (pens, hair-ties and a book), but keeping a careful eye on my stuff has made me more tidy. Never leave your wash stuff in the bathroom if you don’t want someone else to use it. Expect your towel to go missing when it looks like everyone else’s travel towel, unless you hang it up carefully near your bed.

Stef tending to our travelling garden on our way from France to Serbia.

But I’ve noticed that it’s not just while I’m backpacking now. My last trip - to France and the Balkans - was by car. I find I now have the habit of putting things back where I took them from and keeping my stuff in one area. Ok that area might not be that tidy (right now, my bag is just dumped out into the bottom of the wardrobe in the apartment that I call home at the moment) but everything is in there, and with the doors shut it looks tidy.

Ask my Mum and she may not agree - my room at her house tends towards the childhood habit of keeping clothes displayed on the floor (yes I do need that many pairs of black leggings), but travel has made me tidier and more aware of where my stuff is - just one more reason to go around the world!

Are you a tidy person? And when you travel? I can’t wait to travel again! Once we can, where do you want to go? And how much stuff will you be taking? Comment below.

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World Day of the Poor:FARM STREET ORGANIST CHANGES KEY TO OFFER SUPPORT

17/11/2020

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It was back in January that I last played the organ at Farm Street Church in Mayfair before taking a sabbatical. The world I returned to was very different. Have a read of the article I wrote for the church.

Read Here

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FASCISTS in Šid: Tensions in Serbia

9/11/2020

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The tiny border town of Sid, Serbia.

“Once a king or queen of Narnia, always a king or queen of Narnia.”

CS Lewis’ words about belonging can be applied to No Name Kitchen volunteers, I’m NNK for life now, and I try to keep up with the rapidly changing situation in all our bases. (see? I said ‘our’). Šid is sounding pretty difficult right now. Volunteers are being hassled by locals and authorities, plus the situation for people-on-the-move (PotM) both in and out of camps, is increasingly problematic. Here’s a bit more about what’s going on there right now.

A fascist youth group called “Omladina Shida” (Youth of Sid), has recently called for the removal of NNK volunteers from Šid as well the removal of migrants from the municipality.

As reported in Serbia publication Danas – the youth group organised a protest which took place on Sunday 1st November 2020 where they called for the military to be returned to the area. When I was there in June and July, the military were stationed outside of each of the camps supposedly to help with Coronavirus measures, although in reality it had more do with the imminent election. The youth group referred to this, saying:

"The President of the Republic sent the army only as a pre-election marketing trick to collect our votes and to guard those reception centers because the police do not have the capacity to do that,".

They also demand that people not be allowed to return after being deported from Croatia or Hungary – citing fears over the increased Coronavirus numbers in both of those countries as the reason for this.

PotM who once went into town regularly to purchase food and other essential items, now report being scared to do so. In the summer, it was possible to meet friends from the Family Camp in cafes in town. Even while I was there, this became more difficult and recently it was reported that it was impossible to get a haircut from anyone in the town. The situation with both local people and the police has worsened further, one young man living in the jungle said, “if we go into town, they will beat us.”

Train Tracks to Croatia. Sid always did a great sunset.

NNK have reported a dramatic increase in pressure from both locals and police. Photos and videos of volunteers, taken without consent, have appeared on Facebook and Instagram. Not only have police attended and disrupted distributions of food, they have also served six or seven volunteers with removal papers, giving them seven days in which to leave the country. My favourite quote from the article describes NNK as:

"That foreign non-governmental organization of former, current and future drug addicts and losers."

NNK organised an event on Sunday 8th November 2020 as a response to the youth group’s protest and in order to build links with local people. They wanted to explain their work and open up dialogue to discuss the issues felt on both sides. They were subject to insults from onlookers and were told to leave by police. The delightful Mayor of Šid has been driving by the volunteer house in his car, causing stress to those living there. Just like he did to me and Stef on our last day in the town. We were standing outside Family Camp, at an appropriate distance, saying goodbye to our friends. The Mayor drove right up to us, flashed his lights, honked his horn and filmed us from inside the car. He also refused to talk to us about why he was doing this and eventually we left so as not to cause stress to those in the camp.

My own experiences with Serbian people overall was very positive. Almost everyone said 'hello' (well, acutually Zdravo or Dobra dan) on the street and helped with directions when I looked lost. Several incidents of particular kindness come to mind, when my poor little car had a few problems: once being fixed for nothing, another time some passing workmen changing the wheel when I had a flat tyre. Free fruit was a common theme, not to mention the tireless efforts of the team at social justice NGO KlikAktiv who seem to work night and day to help PotM and volunteers, whatever their questions or problems. I sincerely hope that things improve in Šid for the sake of everyone. My good wishes and strong thoughts go to the volunteers and the PotM there now. Keep strong!

Have you got any questions about the situation in Serbia? Or about my time there? Let me know, comment below.

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Hiking Near Čačak Serbia

12/10/2020

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I’m not sure I would have ever visited Serbia on holiday had it not been for the pandemic and the migrant crisis combined. Perhaps I would have done a long weekend if there were a sale on flights to Belgrade. Even on my break between projects, I hadn’t planned to visit Čačak (pronounced Charchak). Stef and I were travelling in southern Serbia and Kosovo on our way to Bosnia. We visited Niš in Serbia with its ancient Ottoman history and concentration camp museum, before stopping in Kosovar capital Pristina. It was at this point we had to decide how and where to get a Covid PCR test which is required before entering Bosnia. Some map searching and googling led to Čačak. After a whistle-stop visit to beautiful Prizren and it’s many mosques, and a quick stop in the divided city of Mitrovica, we arrived to a small health centre in a random city. Here’s some info about the city, and what we got up to while waiting for the test and for the result.

Mountain Cabin life.

Čačak

The city is located just over two hours on the bus from Belgrade, in the West Morava Valley in Central Serbia. There are over 30 monasteries in the vicinity dating from the 14th century. Many of these are located in the Ovcar-Kablar Gorge. More on this later. The city has a bustling main square, busy market and friendly inhabitants. But if you visit, you'll likely spend most of your time out of the city.

Mountain Air

We stayed at this mountain cabin near Prejevor, not too far from the centre. It was the perfect antidote to the bustling cities we had been in. Peaceful, green and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Jovana and her mum Lily welcomed us with coffee, homemade jam and fresh salad before lighting a BBQ to cook corn on the cob. We went for a walk up the hill, passing the orchards of plum trees, the encroaching darkness revealed the multitude of stars.

Hiking and Monasteries

The next morning we set off to scale the mountain of Kablar. We had some vague directions and had a very adventurous drive through old mountain tunnels before arriving to Ovcar Banjar, a tiny town in the river valley. We had a quick look at the hiking map before starting our ascent. There are plenty of trails here and different ways to reach the summit. We of course didn’t notice the ! that accompanied our route. There were very steep sections where scrambling was required, metal handholds had been positioned in some places but it was definitely quite dodgy. The views paid off though. We gained height quickly and the view along the valley in both directions was stunning. We reached the top, sweaty and proud, and sat and ate some chocolate admiring the view, while those who had driven most of the way up bustled to the viewpoint and back. The trail we chose for the descent was much easier going. There were fruit trees to keep us energised, and a really different landscape. None of the same stunning river views though.

Hiking Trails Map

Čačak Centre

We stayed at an apartment in the centre of the city for a couple of nights. I’m not sure I’d recommend the place we stayed but it will remain memorable for a host of reasons…! I had a lovely run through the pedestrianised centre to the river. Then we visited the church as we wandered around. The highlights of many trips are often the food. We found THE best bakery. Serbia is a vegan paradise. No, I’m not joking. Thanks to the Eastern Orthodox tradition of abstaining from animal products on Wednesdays and Fridays, many baked goods are vegan. Zmej pekara was amazing! Not only did they have friendly and patient staff, but a wealth of vegan choice. I think we visited about 4 times in 3 days. The mushroom burek, potato pitta, sweet breads and weird cheesecake thing were all amazing but were however shadowed by THE CHOCOLATE CROISSANT. Chocolate filled and chocolate covered. Bliss.

The market in Čačak was another absolute highlight. The colourful stands of fresh and local produce were a vegan heaven. We were admiring a man’s melon stall and were offered a taste. “Dobro” we had a multilingual conversation about which countries we were from, which somehow resulted in us being given half an enormous melon!

Paintings and refreshment at Monastir Preobrazenje

Hiking Mount Ovcar

Undeterred by our adventurous hike, we returned to Ovcar Banjar to scale the second of the twin peaks. The monasteries in this area are extraordinary. Many are still inhabited by monks or nuns, and have ancient wall paintings. The first that we visited was Monastir Preobrazenje where we had to put on long clothes to be allowed to enter. The nuns were very friendly and had provided fruit and water, and the paintings inside the dark chapel were beautiful. We continued our hike on the other side of the river where we saw three or four other monasteries. Another larger one had refreshments for travellers too. It was at this point that we decided that the weather wasn’t quite bad enough to deter us from scaling the peak. It was shortly after this that it started with the thunder and lightning. You’ll have to let me know what the view is like from the top…

If we had more time, there were miles and miles of unexplored paths and numerous other monasteries to visit. And I'd definitely return to the city just to visit the pekara!

What's the best bakery food you've had? Comment below.

The view from Kablar before it rained!

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Sliding Doors: My Pandemic, France, Serbia, Bosnia

5/10/2020

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Corona Virus has undoubtedly touched all our lives. Every interaction is tinged with a new caution, all plans are made with a new uncertainty. Some people have managed to survive in a relatively unaltered way, others have lost businesses, relationships, homes. I was supposed to be a scuba professional in Mexico, then a church organist in London. When neither of those options were available I went looking for usefulness and adventure - and I found so much more than I could ever have imagined. With all the lows that I have written about, there have been many, many highs too. Here's how it happened.

The scar on the mountain, Croatia's dreadful border.

Another organisation offered to take us shopping! They let us spend their money on hygiene supplies.

I nearly didn't go. In April, the restrictions were incredibly tight and despite the piles of paperwork, I heard that it was no longer possible to travel directly to France to volunteer in Calais. I spoke to the organisation, they whispered about another possibility via Belgium, their enthusiasm for my arrival spurred me on. A beautiful sunset, an overnight ferry and a bit of a drive. I could've made another decision. That film Sliding Doors, where you watch both realities play out - the one where she catches the train, and the one where she misses it, the doors slide closed in front of her - it could so easily have been a different reality. I was only going to stay three weeks.

The people I met in France are entirely responsible for what happened next! "There's a guy in Serbia, on his own, why don't you do there?". I can remember the conversation that Stef and I had which resulted in our commitment to join No Name Kitchen. 3 days driving later and my piano and my little British car crosses the 8th country border of the trip, out of the European Union and into the tiny town of Šid in Serbia. I learnt so much in Serbia. I learnt to make huge pots of food, to communicate in different ways in order optimise the reach of our organisation. I learnt some Pashto, some Serbo-croatian, a wariness of the police and where to find the best accidentally vegan pastries. I learnt about the brutality of the Croatian border guard, the hoops that need jumping through to get medical treatment if you're a person on the move, and the hopes and dreams of my new friends. Always hopes, despite everything.

"Serbia is bad, but Bosnia is worse. The police, the camps, the whole situation." Stef and I had decided to have the same time frame. This meant we wanted to go somewhere else after Serbia. Bosnia presented itself when No Name Kitchen wanted to set up something new in Bihać. Sounds mad doesn't it? I'm a church organist but seem to be being trusted to start operations in a new place for an organisation we've been with for 2 months. Me, Stef, the piano and the little British car toured Serbia and Kosovo before arriving in the mountain city. Sliding doors had placed us there with a familiar colleague and rather a lot of freedom to find out the need and work towards filling it. I am still amazed at the trust NNK put in us to do this, and amazed that we were able to use the skills we'd learnt to connect with other organisations and people on the move in a way that seemed very much lacking in the city.

I didn't know it was possible to be so stressed and still be able to function. There were a couple of days in Bihać when circumstances were mindblowingly stressful. There is always more to do, always someone we had to say "I'm sorry, we can't help you today." There are always reports to write, articles to pitch, friends to chat with, plans to make, lists and lists of things to do. There was one day in particular where I had a few minutes. I lay on my bed and wept, then dried my face and went back out there. We had already extended our stay for a few more days to try to fit more in.

On our last day, we went to visit the other No Name Kitchen in Velika Kladuša. It was only going to be to drop off some keys. A lovely lunch later and we couldn't resist going on one more distribution. We were greeted with surprise by guys we'd met in Bihac but were now in VK. "Hello! How are you? Bihać!" We had some nice chats while the distribution happened around us, then said our goodbyes to people on the move and volunteer friends. Being able to drive across the Croatian border with our shiny passports is sickening. Our friends stay months and years at the gate of the European Union, living rough, being beaten, not having enough to eat or a safe place to sleep. But it is still better than the alternative of a war-torn country or persecution for what you think or believe.

I am forever changed by the people I've met. As I write this, with a week's distance in the safety of Germany, I wouldn't change a thing about my pandemic experience and I am excited for my new future, which I can see beginning to spread out in front of me. Always do more.

Donate to the work of No Name Kitchen in Bosnia and all the other bases via this link.

"Place your hand in mine,
Run into the sunset,
Chase the future,
Always be kind."

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Day to Day Life in ŠID, Serbia

7/7/2020

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The town sign written in Cyrillic

This tiny town, surrounded by fields of corn, wheat and sunflowers, feels like a different age. A trip to Serbian capital Belgrade was quite overwhelming after a week in the country. The shopping centre where I parked my little British car was a dissonance with the vegetable market and bakeries we frequent here. Upon my arrival in Šid, our branch of No Name Kitchen had to be restarted almost from nothing as operations had ceased during the coronavirus lockdown. We had to establish connections with people on the move and figure out how best to help them. Now we have a vague schedule which allows us to plan our time and resources, which looks something like this.

Shopping

Each day we go to the market to buy vegetables to cook with. We try and see what is cheapest in order to stretch our minimal budget as far as possible. We also buy bread from one of the many bakeries in town. 20-30 loaves of bread fit in this massive bag we have, a bit of a challenge to carry home!

Helen and the bread!

Chopping

Our big kitchen is in the garden. We have a big table for chopping vegetables and some big gas burners for huge cooking pots. We’ll put some water on to heat for lentils, beans, rice or pasta, then peel tonnes of onions and chop thousands of potatoes. We’ve got pretty creative with the spices and flavours. Balsamic cabbage was a hit, and hummus was awesome. It’s a challenge to estimate how much food to make for 60-100 people each day on a tight budget.

Admin tasks

Each of us has a specific role within the organisation which requires time. Logistics involves obtaining clothes and supplies for us to use, as well as the management of volunteers arriving and plenty of other details. Finance is a complicated task of maintaining our financial records, applying for an appropriate budget and monitoring our spending. Violence reporting requires conducting interviews with people who have been victims of illegal pushback from another country to Serbia. The often violent crime that is committed by Croatian, Romanian or Hungarian border guards are reported by the Border Violence Monitoring Network. Communication involves creating content for social media as well as a weekly podcast that goes out in Spanish. Health involves first aid as well as directing people towards services that they can access, or facilitating payment for things they can’t afford. This is my role, and so far I have got someone a new frame for his glasses, and facilitated medications for people where the camp doctor doesn’t cover it. All these tasks have to fit into the day. This means meeting with people, writing reports, filling in forms and liaising with other organisations.

Distribution

In the afternoon we pack up the food, as well as powerbanks that we have charged overnight, and laundry that we have collected and washed the previous day. We also include hygiene items like toothbrushes, tissues and any medical supplies that have been requested. We load it all into our adventure van or my little British car and drive to the meeting point. We have to find meeting places away from where the police might see us, as the guys could get taken back to the camps if they are discovered. Being taken to the camp means they can’t try to cross the border and the camp conditions range from ‘not too bad’ to ‘utterly awful’. One place that we meet is teeming with mosquitoes, so we’re trying to provide bug spray and bite treatment to as many people as we can.

Sunflowers in Serbia

By the end of the day there are usually some left-over tasks. Washing up, meetings or discussions can take up some time, we have to plan regular trips to Belgrade in order to restock on cheap food and meet with other organisations. Otherwise we can go for a walk in the sunflower fields with Una the Bosnian street dog and then wander to the centre of town. There’s a place for vegan ice cream as well as some friendly bars to relax in. Every day is busy and full and there are tough times. The stories of the violent pushbacks are the hardest to hear, and managing a tiny budget when trying to help so many people is difficult. It’s hard having to say no to so many requests for essential items, but we know we’re helping even if the lists seem endless at times.

To help us with our work here you can donate to No Name Kitchen here.

I'm always happy to answer questions about the work here and the migrant crisis in general. Let me know in the comments or contact form if you want to know more about it here.