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BERWICKSHIRE COASTAL PATH: Microadventure in Scotland

3/6/2022

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I’ve always got a bit of a, what I call, “mad plan” at the back of my mind. Sometimes involving sleeping in airports or on buses, somehow squeezing in an adventure into whatever else I happen to be doing. Alastair Humphreys coined the term ‘microadventure’. And it was with Alastair’s help that I could set off on the Berwickshire Coastal Path.

This mad plan did in fact involve sleeping on a bus. The night bus from London to Edinburgh is only barely useful, as booking train tickets in advance can be not too much more. But I was disorganised about when to travel, booked last minute and then nearly missed it, thinking that it left Victoria Coach Station at 11:30 pm when departure time was actually 10:30 pm. It was exciting to be waking up in a new place.

Edinburgh in the early morning was a treat, no tourists and clear skies. I had given myself one day to gather some kit together before setting off to walk the Berwickshire Coastal Path. From Cockburnspath (pronounced Co-burns path) to Berwick-Upon-Tweed, it’s just 50 kilometres along the cliffs of Scotland and then into the northerly city of England. Thanks to friends Beccy and Charlotte I could borrow a raincoat, sleeping bag and big backpack. I’d brought my brother’s (now mine I think, finders keepers, sorry Ben) Bivvy bag from my mum’s but I still needed a sleeping mat. Enter Alastair’s twitter followers. Minutes after asking Al to retweet my request, I was in touch with Nicholas, via someone else, who came and dropped off a roll mat. I couldn’t believe the generosity of going out of his way to help a complete stranger with a mad plan. 

My previous near-miss with a bus had me at the bus station rather earlier than necessary to get the 253. I had to remember to get off at the right place, otherwise I’d end up in Berwick without having walked anywhere. An hour and half after leaving Edinburgh, I was a bit dozy from the journey, but it was suddenly time to get off. Within minutes of starting my walk, everything was wrong. I needed to pee, my water bottle fell out of its holder, I was too hot. Ok, kit sorted, now to find the sea.
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The first finger post on the Berwickshire Coastal Path. I do love a good footpath sign.
PictureProof of reaching Siccar Point.
I quite like not researching too much into what I’m doing. I don’t want someone else to spoil the surprises. But I do love a good travel or adventure book, preferably similar not too similar to what I’m doing. For this trip I was reading James Scanlan’s A Moroccan Journey: Agadir to Tangier I’d started it on the bus and had the words echoing in my ears as a strode along the first stretch of cliff top. Walking from Morocco to England was a bit different to my current two day challenge, yet we both had big packs and adventurous outlooks. James shared a similar outlook at the start of the journey, and writes at the start of his journey:

“He stopped at the beach by the first Ferris Wheel to be built in Africa, to readjust pronouns and rehydrate, then off I walked… the whole world smelt of rotten fish.”

My first milestone was Siccar Point. Nicholas of roll mat fame had told me of the geological importance of this bit of coast. It’s called somebody’s Unconformity. Henderson’s? No, that's the name of the veggie restaurant. Hudson’s? Could be. It provided proof in the 18th century that the world was aeons old and not just 6,000 years old. (No fact checking here, might be all wrong.) To reach the point, which offers no view of the rocks that are so famous, requires dodging cowpats and their menacing producers. After a windy swig of water in celebration, I had to return along cowpat path to continue. But I took a selfie with the information board, so that’s ok.

Whilst the stunning scenery and surprisingly good weather were a joy, there’s always those moments when you question your sanity. I’d run out of water and was traversing a long, slow, grassy gradient. Sheep shit everywhere. I was hungry but didn’t want to stop in the shitty field. My left ankle was tired of constantly walking along the sloping ground and the wind was so strong it nearly knocked me off balance. It is in these moments that peanut butter scoped from a jar with a pita bread tastes the best!

My impeccable timing meant I reached the quaint village of St Abbs just as everything was closing. I heard the bolt slide shut on the visitors’ centre (and loos) as I rounded the corner. But I didn’t need amenities, I had the ocean (and sufficient nutrition). Sitting on a stone bench in the sun, overlooking the harbour, munching on raisins and chatting to my OH on a video call was all I needed right then.

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The cove where I slept. Bliss.
“How did you sleep?” was the first question of my friends on my return to Edinburgh. “Ridiculously well,” was my smug response. My superpower is the ability to sleep anywhere. I’m so grateful for it. After walking through two perfectly good coves, I decided to settle in the third. The reddish rock offered substantial protection from the still-howling wind and I found the perfect spot above the waterline in some soft grass surrounded by growing ferns and pink and purple flowers. By 8:30 pm I was snuggled in my borrowed sleeping bag, as James was once again walking through rain and around illegal sand mines on the Moroccan coast.

I don’t mind my own company at all, something James and I share. “Naturally introverted, I could easily walk for six months without talking to a soul, and all I’d have to show for it at the end would be half a haiku.” At 4:30 am I peaked out at the stunning sunrise. Reds and golds sparkled on the sea. Then promptly fell back to sleep until my alarm at 7 am. 


Never has the automatic door of a Co-Op made such a welcoming noise. Eyemouth is my new favourite place. The little sandy beach was the perfect location for my breakfast of Diet Coke, apple and well travelled Plenny Bar (see this post if you don’t know what that is). I had to have a paddle. I’d just seen a man wade in in only swimming shorts, so I can’t be that cold right? Wrong. But so refreshing. Especially given how much of the path was high up on the cliffs, I wasn’t sure when I’d be at sea level again.

“Nobody cares that much. I’m sorry that’s not true. Nobody cares at all.”

James quotes Bill Bryson in his book, about reading other people’s blog posts about walking, so boring. So I won’t bore you with the hours of jagged coastal rocks, grassy cliff tops, occasional caravan park. You’ll see them all when you walk it yourself. But the constant sun (yes I got sunburnt in Scotland) was remarkable. James too focuses on encounters and people rather than his route. The friendly old chaps who filled my water bottle, and the dog walker who spotted the deer and the cyclists walking their bikes up a steep hill, those are the memorable things about my journey. 


Berwick-Upon-Tweed was welcome when it came. By which I mean, after I accidentally continued along the coast instead of turning inland. After purchasing some much-needed aftersun location, I sat by the River Tweed, composed new words to a tune that was stuck in my head, and let James arrive in Tangier. We shared the feelings of relief, disappointment, triumph and agitation at the temporary end to our journeys. 

Massive thanks to Nicholas, Beccy and Charlotte for lending me kit, and James Scanlan for keeping me company. And to Alastair Humphreys for constant encouragement of mad plans.

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Back From Bihać, Bosnia: March 2022

20/3/2022

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Sunset over the River Una in Bihac, Bosnia.
Two months back in Bihać flew by. From arriving via treacherous, icy roads to hiking through spring flowers, the seasons changed during our nine weeks there.


Fortunately, the situation is much more stable than in previous years. People-on-the-move are still facing difficult conditions. They are living in broken houses, but neighbours are helping by providing food or phone charging. Sometimes, people are taken to Lipa Camp against their will, only to have to walk the 20 plus kilometres back again, but it’s not too often, and a night in the camp is ok since it's reopening in December.


My previous post details much of the daily work volunteering for No Name Kitchen, and with more time and resources than previously, we tried to make improvements to what we can offer. Fruit and more vegetables in the food bags and a laundry service for those living in more stable places. Doing what we can when racism and corruption prevents people from renting their own accommodation or accessing their money.

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A shower in the fields outside Bihać
Another precious resource we had this year, was more time. With more volunteers, we could carve out dedicated space for spending time with people outside of any other activity.

I had a coffee with Sohail, a tall, strong man who had worked as an electrical engineer. He’s got a big beard which makes him look older than his 26 years, excellent English skills as well as his native Pashto (he’s from Afghanistan) and Turkish after years working there. We chatted about Turkey which I had visited recently, as well as getting operational advice on places to meet people where the authorities or neighbours won’t mind or report us.

Sohail was also keen for advice, he wants to work as an electrical engineer in Western Europe but many governments don’t recognise foreign qualifications, so it’s not a straightforward process. And that’s after having an asylum claim accepted - waiting is a part of everyone’s future, even after they have reached a safe place. The time taken for initial interviews is months and then there is further waiting for a response, during which time you’re not allowed to work. Only wait.
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The wild horses of Livno, Bosnia - a team trip on our free day.
No Name Kitchen is a family, a community of people who share values, commitment and ambition. And it’s growing - recent calls for translators and legal advisors demonstrates the tireless search for more ways we can help. We’ve had discussions about bases in new places, responding to the changing trends to the Balkan route as well as elsewhere.

The invasion of the Ukraine remains a conversation on everyone’s lips. Some people presume that Bosnia will receive increased numbers of refugees, but logically that’s not the case. Safe and legal routes have been rapidly provided in Western Europe to those fleeing war from Ukraine. A show of humanity that wasn’t extended to those fleeing war in Afghanistan or Syria. Below is the press release issued by No Name Kitchen which entirely and eloquently expresses my views. Please read it.
I know that I’ll be a part of No Name Kitchen as long as there is a need to help those at Europe’s borders. I’ll probably end up back in Bosnia - it’s a wonderful country to visit. Stand by for posts and articles about touristic attractions from capital city Sarajevo and the wild horses of Livno - but who knows where the next adventure will be.

Thank you to everyone at No Name Kitchen for all the hard work, and especially to Stephanie for being my constant companion in everything. There are always difficult situations and hard moments to navigate, and doing it together is always so much easier! If you feel moved to support our work, donate here.
​Press Release Below.
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Bosnian Coffee in Sarajevo
PRESS RELEASE: The reception of people who have fled Ukraine has proved us right: offering legal channels for migration is possible

17th March 2022. European Union. No Name Kitchen has always been very clear about the solution to the so-called ‘refugee crisis’: providing legal routes for people to escape their war-torn countries and seek asylum in a safe place, as well as for migrants in general.

The war in Ukraine, which has caused the displacement of many people to neighboring countries, has shown us that, as terrible as it is to leave your home and be separated from your family in search of a safe haven, the process can be done in a kind and speedy way in order to avoid suffering as much as possible.

Even so, the European reception response that we are witnessing these days, and which we support, shows immense hypocrisy on the part of a 21st century Europe that has by no means overcome a xenophobia that has left devastating events in our history.

The people we support in the places where we are working - and which are always areas bordering the European Union-, are also escaping from wars, threats, poverty, lack of opportunities or dictatorships. When they try to reach a country where they can seek asylum or start a new life, they find a border full of violence, a Europe that does not comply with its own laws and international agreements, with illegal refoulements.

Why are we saying that the EU's reaction to the Ukrainian people shows great hypocrisy?

- When the Taliban seized power in Afghanistan in August, very few people were welcomed in Europe to escape, even knowing full well that many of them were in danger because they had worked with foreign governments or agencies. No Name Kitchen collected cases of many, many families who needed to find a safe haven and received no response from the European authorities.



- Some borders are opened, while others are closed. Every day, present in border towns, we meet people with bruises all over their bodies or who have been ripped off their clothes. This happens to coincide with the fact that a large number of the people in Ceuta (Spain) and in the Balkan countries come from Muslim countries. This intervention could lead to greater Islamophobia in society or normalise xenophobia towards people from Asia or Africa.

- We have seen how black people who are trying to flee the country have encountered a lot of discrimination in their flight, as the news have shown in recent days.

- We see that if there is international political will, there are ways to put pressure on a country in a context of war, with economic and political measures. This is something that the international community has refused to do with other countries, as in the case of Israel with Palestine.


With all this, we want to call for reflection on how aporophobia and Islamophobia determine our external border control policies. People fleeing countries like Afghanistan or Eritrea are doing so for the same reason as the nearly two million people who have left their homes in Ukraine today.

Regarding the reception of people from Ukraine, we would like to recall how the asylum applications of people from this country who fled the war that started in 2016 have been almost entirely rejected in Spain. We hope that this decision taken now is out of true humanity and not as part of a political game.
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Bosnia in February: a Bihac update

12/2/2022

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My early morning run. -1C when I start, then the sun rises over the mountains.
After five weeks back here, there have been changes. I now feel like I have an overview of the situation here, read on for more details.

It’s amazing how much the weather affects everything, isn’t it? The snow and ice has gone for now. The sunny days are beautiful, temperatures reach the teens and we can walk in just t-shirts. The nights are still freezing though. As soon as it gets dark, temperatures plummet below zero again. 


The warmer weather brings different challenges, the van slips in mud instead of ice as we drive up dirt roads to replenish the water stations. The water is used more quickly by those living in tents or broken buildings now that there’s no snow to melt. 


I can’t believe I haven’t mentioned the showers! Another organisation invented portable showers. The boiler, which runs on a gas bottle, is mounted onto a crate with straps - meaning it can be worn like a backpack to transport it to remote locations. We bring a camping shower surround and plenty of water, and the guys can shower for as long as they like. This is a service we could never have dreamed of offering last year. Showers take a while, leaving the van and volunteers standing around in fields for hours, visible to authorities. Most of the work we do is criminalised (due to complex Bosnian law) but both police and locals mind far less than they did last year.​

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A view of the Bihac from the memorial on a hill.
The showers are amazing. Such a clever design and they are part of a wider programme to promote various other health topics. Scabies is a big issue. The parasitic skin condition requires treating every member of the group with all-over body cream and showers have been essential to this treatment. The blankets, clothes and sleeping bags of everyone staying at the same location have to be washed at high temperatures too. The logistics of the whole process now involves several groups with different skills and equipment.

The improved conditions for people here are the subject of many conversations with journalists, other organisations and donors. But the other day, as I was standing around while a couple of people were showering, the reality of the situation hit me once again. 
Yes, a shower is better than no shower, but it’s still outside, there’s limited privacy, and the experience of relying on volunteers to bring you the opportunity is degrading. 
The people here want the opportunity for a dignified life, where they can make a decision to shower or not shower whenever they like. They want the opportunity to work and pay their way, to contribute to communities and provide for family members elsewhere. Or not - maybe some people want to spend all the money they earn on a fancy car and expensive TV. Why not? It’s a choice that the rest of us have.

In every sad story there are elements of happiness. I took this report of a violent pushback. The young man from Afghanistan urgently needed dental treatment and whilst we were waiting for the appointment, we were chatting. The details of his most recent illegal deportation came up. Please read the report. It gives in insight into the every-day conditions people here are facing.

Despite improving conditions, the EU is still responsible for illegal acts. But as you read it, you can think of this guy eating a croissant for breakfast, he’s in France. He has new challenges now, but the violence of the Croatian authorities isn’t one of them, and for that I can breathe a sigh of relief.

An outdoor shower is better than no shower, to support our continued work here, donate to No Name Kitchen via this link. Comment of support and encouragement are always welcome!

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A change is as good as a rest, And don’t forget to feed the goat… Workaway in Germany

23/9/2021

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Workaway life, on the Dutch border, of course there are clogs.
The last 18 months have been unexpected for all of us. Yet I still wonder how I end up where. One thing led to another, and I found myself arriving at the farm on the German/Dutch border in my noisy British car. Living with strangers, helping with goats, it’s just the sort of thing that happens to me apparently.

I had decided to do a Workaway. I was stuck in a rut, bored and needing adventure. I’d been spending a lot of time in front of a computer, writing, doing courses and had put pressure on myself to achieve goals and keep working hard. There had been a time when a week was the longest I’d spend in one place. So I needed a change of scene. 

Restrictions in Germany were still quite strict which made travel problematic, but it was only an hour’s drive to my new home. The deal with Workaway is that you work in exchange for bed and board. Hosts can set their own parameters but something like 4 or 5 hours work per day seems common. 


Farm is perhaps a grand word for where I was. Joris and Leonie have around 10 goats, 5 or so chickens, a couple of geese, dozens of cats (ok only about 10 at the time…), and an elderly dog. That first evening I was welcomed incredibly warmly. We had a drink and a lovely dinner and got to know each other. 

My first full day, and it was raining. Joris and Leonie both went off to work, leaving me with a choice of several jobs. It was liberating to be told what to do and not be self-motivating. 
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Tiny kittens!
First I checked on the tiny, week-old kittens before being watched by several pairs of goat’s eyes as I dashed to the shed. I say shed. The house was pretty confusing, only part of it was modern and liveable - like a concrete box inside the shell of the older structure. The enormous, long building that was the shed, actually attached to the rest of the house and somehow led to the roof space and other more solid rooms. I put on a podcast and settled to my task. I was sorting and tidying the numerous, somewhat lethal looking tools and cleaning up. It was satisfying to see chaos turned to order. 

I spent the drier part of the day weeding the potato patch - under the watchful eye of both goat and cat. It was great to be outside in the fresh air, and watching the potato plants appear as the weeds were cleared away. 

By the end of the day I was tired, but in the good way of feeling physically spent. So much better than sitting at a computer all day! I also had plenty of time for yoga and reading. 

Over another delicious dinner, with vegetables from the garden, I got to know more about the motivations for the farm. Of course, veganism was brought up quite early on, but we agreed that the most important thing was for people to know where their food came from. Would you really eat the chicken if you had seen it’s living conditions? Or if you knew what cocktail of drugs and hormones were fed to mother cows to get the milk you drink? Joris and Leonie are working towards self-sufficiency. Already they produce a healthy crop of vegetables to keep them going throughout the year.
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A selection of goats on a sunny day.
I raised the window blind on my second morning to rain pouring from the sky! The goats normally get let into their paddock during the day, but the weather meant that they were staying in the stable for now. Leonie left me a note to ask me to check the water, give more hay and bottle-feed the smallest baby. So around lunchtime, after chopping wood all morning (not with an axe like a badass woodswoman but using a machine), I ventured into the goat stable. Taking the little boy outside for his bottle seemed to go as planned. The sour smell of the goat’s milk had already become quite familiar and goats all have their own, unique personalities which I was beginning to learn. It was only when I opened one of the inner pens that I had a few issues. 

Goats are strong and heavy. So when a mother and her babies are wandering around the wrong part of the stable, there’s not really that much you can do about it. Chief goat Selma went to have a look through the doors of the other pens, tried to steal their hay, attempted to break into the feed shed and trod on my foot. Obviously these goats only understood Dutch, none of my pleas for cooperation were listened to.

Eventually I convinced her that her hay was just as good as everyone else’s and the babies followed her in, with the gate slamming quickly behind!

Joris and Leonie both had taken holidays from their regular work for the second week that I was there. It was really fun to be part of a team (and not take full responsibility for goat escapes…) The weather shared our enthusiasm and we had beautiful sunshine to inspire us to work harder. 

Our first team project was to dig holes for the fence posts of the new paddock. The goats needed more space and a change of scene. The experts (not me!) measured and marked out the new fence line while I dug 70 cm deep holes where I was told. I really enjoyed the physicality of using my muscles, sweating in the sun and chatting to my friends. 
PictureWork in progress, new fencing.

When we had had our fill of holes and fence posts, I borrowed a bike and went exploring. As an islander, it still blows my mind that you can just step into another country so easily. It's not quite as flat as expected in this part of the country and Joris directed me to a viewing tower on a hill. There were fantastic views in all directions, over the Netherlands and back across Germany, on the beautifully clear day. 

It’s amazing how a shift in thinking can cause a physical change. I had given my time to the farm and therefore released myself from the pressures of writing pitches, learning German and cramming each day full. 



I haven’t mentioned the puppy! Olla joined the family during my stay. I think he’s the absolute best.


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Olla the puppy! He's so good.
On my last evening, we had a barbeque. Marinated giant mushrooms, veggie kebabs, garden grown salad and Dutch beer led to some deep conversations. Leonie asked me what they could do to make it better for Workawayers. They’re keen to create a place that is as inspiring as some of the Workaways that Leonie had done several years ago. I had been so warmly welcomed, they had given me the right amount of instructions about the tasks and I’d worked hard but not too hard. I had time to write a bit and explore. It was the perfect refreshment that I needed. 

The pandemic has caused us all to rethink our interactions and priorities. I found rejuvenation and renewal so close to home, by changing my mindset. I was reminded how important exploring and meeting new people is to me, and how simple living is rewarding in a different way to being productive at a computer. And it was certainly the case that my fresh mindset allowed me to focus on projects better when I got back. 

Thank you Joris and Leonie for us a wonderful break. I already know that we'll meet again, especially because the puppy is soo cute!

Have you done a workaway? Would you consider it? Tell me why in the comments below.

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Relaxing by the fire. Workaway life.
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Riding for women: Sponsored 100km Bike Ride

19/8/2021

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Afghanischer Frauenverein - Afghan Women's Association.

The events in Afghanistan, and the implications that the Taliban rule will have on women and girls, are extremely worrying. Access to education and employment opportunities are just the start of the problems. 

***** UPDATE! We did it! Here's the instagram post to prove it.


So we thought we'd try to do something about it. Stephanie and I are going to do a 100 km bike ride in aid of Afghanischer Frauenverein (Afghan Women's Association). 

About the Ride - Saturday 28th August

The R
adbahn Münsterland is a cycle path in Northern Germany. It follows an old railway line, from Coesfeld to Rheine - with Steinfurt (where we live) right in the middle. So we plan to cycle the whole thing twice - from the middle to one end and home again, and then to the other end and home again. This will be a total of 100 km, and we get to have lunch at home!
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100 km on the Radbahn Münsterland will be a challenge - we're just 25 km in in this photo.
About the Organisation

The Afghan Women's Association have been working in Afghanistan since 1992. They work in remote areas to provide life necessities like clean water to drink, as well as providing education opportunities. All whilst ensuring local people are involved, the projects are run by 190 local people. They are a registered organisation in Germany.

Right now they are focusing on emergency response.

We're aiming to raise €/£500 to support people who are now displaced. You can read more about this fund-raising project here, but here is an extract:
​

"244,000 people, most of them women with small children, have been fleeing the escalating violence in the country since the withdrawal of international troops from Afghanistan in May 2021 and are desperately seeking protection between the fronts. On August 10th alone, 20,000 refugees from the disputed areas of Kunduz, Baglan, Tachar and Badachschan reached the city of Kabul. Most of them have been able to save nothing but the clothes they wear. Everything is missing: drinking water, food, shelter, hygiene options, protection and medical care."
​
Stephanie and I are both feeling devastated by the news footage.

We have met people who fled exactly for the reasons we are now seeing. And our friends from Afghanistan have shared with us how scared they are for remaining friends and family members, as well as how sad they are for their country.

But we are both excited to be doing something, as well as having an adventure. I've never cycled that far in one day. And our longest training ride was just over 50 km, so it will certainly be a challenge.

Please donate to this excellent organisation.


You can do so via THIS LINK. And then we'd love it if you posted a comment here to let us know and wish us luck. We aren't able to track the donations directly, so if you fancied letting us know how much you donated so that we can feel smug, that would be great too.

If you are in the UK, you can also sigh THIS PETITION to call for the UK government to show compassion to asylum seekers.

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We're ready! Hannah and Stephanie kitted out for their 100 km bike ride.

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A tale of two cities: Bosnia’s Bihac and Banja Luka

26/5/2021

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What do you know about Bosnia? Do you know about the stunning scenery and national park? Or the highlights of a tour of the second city? Keep reading for some vegan food-porn too!

Historic city centres and beautiful hiking trails, the Balkan country of Bosnia and Herzegovina holds much to interest and inspire, yet remains far from the top of most people’s must-go holiday destinations. The turbulent history of this former Yugoslavian country makes it a fascinating place to visit - capital Sarajevo is the main draw, hosting western European backpackers in the quaint cafes of the Old Town, but there’s far more to the country than this. 


Bihac is the northernmost city in Bosnia and is located in the Federation - predominantly Bosniac muslims inhabit this area. When arriving overland from Croatia, the spires of churches are replaced by the minarets of mosques. Bullet holes are still visible in the buildings from the war which finished in the 1990s, yet Bihac is eager for tourists. 

On first arriving in the city, explore the main square. The cafe-lined and traffic-free Bosanka is a favourite hangout of friendly locals. Stop off for a mali espresso and a chat before continuing to the ancient Fethija Mosque. Originally built as a church in 1266 before being converted to a mosque in 1592, it is the oldest gothic building in the country. It’s quiet location makes it a peaceful place to stop and think awhile.

Not far from here is the pristine River Una, the pride of the city. A view of the crystal clear waters can be enjoyed from the city centre park, or from Cafe H2O on the other side of town.

The city is attractive, but the countryside is the main reason to come. Short hiking trails start in the city to the hill-top fort, but to really see the beauty of the scenery, you need to head to the Una Sana National Park. The famous waterfall Martin Brod is an hour’s drive, but the stunning cascades of Strbacki Buk are closer and can be reached by a pleasant hiking route or by car. Just be sure to stick to the obvious trails. Warning signs for landmines are another stark reminder of the recent conflict. 

If just seeing the water isn’t enough, why not get closer?! Rafting companies can easily be found in Bihac who will take care of all your needs for an exciting day on the water.

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Banja Luka is Bosnia’s second largest city, and the capital of Republica Srpska. This area is claimed by ethnic Serbs - Orthodox Christianty dominates the city. The modern Cathedral stands in a trendy pedestrian zone where glassy shop fronts lead towards the ruined fortress. 

Before you set off to hike up to the war memorial in Tresnjik Park, ensure you stock up on cakes and pastries for the journey. Vegans rejoice! The fasting traditions of the Orthodox church mean that there are plenty of baked goods which are free from animal products. If you can’t see the label for Posno, just ask. Mouthwatering cream cakes with praline centres and buttery croissants are all cruelty free.
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With regular bus connections to Sarajevo from both cities, and to Croatia from Bihac, BiH isn’t too hard to get to. Better is to hire a car and enjoy the road trip in this intriguing and beautiful country.

How much does this make you want to visit? It's really interesting writing from a tourism perspective like this, without a single mention of the refugee crisis. 



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Fasting in Ramadan: Friendship and Gratitude

20/5/2021

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Calais, France in May 2020
Last year, during Ramadan, I lived in France. I was staying with some people who are Muslim and were fasting during the daytime, before preparing lovely evening meals which I was invited to. So I took the opportunity to join them in fasting for a few days.

In May last year in France, sunset wasn’t until after 9:30pm. That’s a looong time to go without food. I picked a day when I would be quite busy with voluntary work and accepted that it would be a challenge. I didn’t find it too difficult to sit with the other volunteers while they were eating lunch, I was mindful that I had chosen to do this and that avoiding the world isn’t really the spirit of it.

Dinner that evening was wonderful. My housemates had prepared a lovely meal, nicely laid out on the table with dates, juice, bread and a vegetable lentil dish. The final hour had been mentally hard as my stomach growled knowing that I would eat soon, but the tastes of the food and the companionship with my friends was certainly worth it.
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Lovely iftar food!

This year I was in Bosnia for most of Ramadan. I was volunteering with No Name Kitchen. My friends who were sleeping rough in the city, refugees from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran and elsewhere, were fasting despite the difficult living conditions. I talked with a lot of people about what it was like, and many people told me that they are used to it. They’ve grown up with the fasting tradition. But the words of one of my closer friends struck me the most.


“We’re used to going without food. Sometimes we will have two or three days when we can’t eat anything, fasting during the day is no problem.”
I chose not to fast while I was working in Bihac. We had long, exhausting days, and I didn’t want to affect the work we were doing when people were counting on us to help. But once I had returned to Germany I fasted for a couple of days. I found it refreshing. It helped me realise (not for the first time) how lucky I am to have access to any food I want almost all the time.

The freedoms of a Western European life start at the basics - access to food and water, the most basic of human rights. 


My Muslim friends, who are still stuck in Bosnia, were very happy to hear that I had fasted with them for a short time. It was a pleasure to be able to have something in common, despite our lives being so different.

We talked about next year, that we will be able to celebrate together when they have reached safe places. 

To show support for people stranded in Bosnia, donate to No Name Kitchen here.


Do you fast for Ramadan? If not, would you try it? Comment below.
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Five Podcasts That Are Worth Listening To

19/1/2021

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I love a good podcast. I tend to listen to them while I’m driving or on a long run. It’s a great way to keep informed about changing trends, in-depth news features as well as learning new things and simply being entertained. Topics can range from comedy shows, to geeky, specialised content on every imaginable subject. 

In this strange corona-time, news outlets seem concerned only with the C-word, so I’ve enjoyed listening to content about the world outside of our own bubble and staying informed about interesting and important issues.

​Here are five of my favourites.
Worldwide Tribe Podcast

“The podcast that will take you on a journey across the world…without you having to go anywhere!”  

Podcast presenter Jaz O’Hara is an engaging host with first hand experience of the things that she’s talking about. She talks to people affected by the migration crisis, people living in camps and those involved in helping in various ways, from policy-makers to field volunteers. 

I’ve particularly enjoyed the episode with Lord Alf Dubs. His fascinating personal story prefixed detail about the Dubs Amendment - an addition to the Brexit Bill which would have ensured that unaccompanied child refugees could be reunited with family members in the UK. 
​
Coffee Break Academy

There are no excuses to have a go at learning a new language these days. I’ve had a go a Spanish, Arabic, Serbo-Croatian-Bosnia, French and German. Duolingo is my go-to app which I use alongside Coffee Break Podcasts. They are easy to listen to, each episode focuses on just a small topic and they progress quite slowly. 

They do Espresso Shots of thirty-one languages, as well as the 20-30 minute regular show which discuss grammar as well cultural aspects.

Bist du bereit? Los gehts!


Jane Goodall’s Hopecast

“For a woman who defied the odds to change the world, Jane has lived a life propelled by hope. But it is not enough to expect something to happen, or to desire it. You must have confidence in the future, take action and trust – trust of yourself and in others.”

This is a new podcast series with the wonderful Dr Jane Goodall. Her long life of raising awareness of the human impact on the natural world has led her to meet numerous interesting and inspirational people. We could definitely all use a dose of hope right now.

Overheard at National Geographic

This is a great series about random interesting things. From ‘The tree at the end of a world’ to  ‘Scuba diving in a pyramid’ the lighthearted style is fun, but you’ll certainly learn stuff!

I particularly enjoyed ‘The Glass Stratosphere’, about women being allowed to be among the first astronauts to the moon. 

Living Adventurously

I feel like Al Humphreys is my friend, we share similar attitudes and restlessness I think. His idea of having 'microadventures' in whatever spare time you had, is now a mainstream term and his publications and mad ideas are inspired! 

His podcast series started when he was spending a month cycling around Yorkshire. His point being that, there are multiple definitions of how to ‘live adventurously’. Some of the people he interviews have completed global physical challenges, as Al himself has, but others find their adventure by becoming immersed in their local community. 

What are you listening to? And why do you like it? Comment below with any other suggestions for me.
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The minimalist life: How backpacking made me tidier

7/12/2020

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My trusty black bag, complete with my scallop shell pendant from the Camino de Santiago and ribbons I've picked up along the way.
I have always been untidy. I had a pretty big bedroom growing up, with plenty of storage space for clothes, toys and school stuff. Yet I’d still end up with a pile of books next to my bed - usually half read, or lined up to be read next - and clothes covering the floor (all the better to see what you’ve got!). But I seem to be changing…

I’ve spent the last 4 or 5 years being largely nomadic. I cleared out the clutter, packed up some things into storage (thanks to Mum’s garage) and took with me only what I really needed. That first big trip to India, I had a sizable backpack stuffed full, plus another bag as a day pack. Well, who knows what you’re going to need during 4 months in a strange land? But it wasn’t long before I got fed up with carrying bags! In fact, as soon as I got to my cousin’s lofty Mumbai flat, I crammed the contents of the small backpack into the bigger bag so I only had one to carry. 
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Delicious sweets at the market in Kozhikode.
There was one particular day that I bemoaned my big bag the most. I was in Kozhikode in the southern state of Kerala. I had found my way from the bus station to the train station amidst the crazy traffic of retro cars and horses pulling carts but I had ages before the train that would take me to the city of Kochi. There was nowhere to leave bags at the station, so I stubbornly explored the fascinating market with my enormous bag. Sweaty, tired and a little bit cross, I remember giving up and sitting at the station for well over an hour - all thanks to my heavy belongings.

So the next trip I took, I was determined to take less stuff. Encouraged by my budget flight, which charged for hold bags, I packed hand luggage only. My black rucksack was meticulously packed so that everything just fitted in. It was great! I didn’t have to wait at baggage reclaim when I landed at LAX, and I could dash around downtown Hollywood with all my stuff. And who needs much clothing in Hawaii?? Ok I had to wash my few t-shirts pretty frequently thanks to Hilo’s humid climate, but walking up and down the beachfront in Kona waiting for the right time for the airport bus was still enjoyable even with all my stuff.
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Near the end of the world - Finisterre, the end of the Camino, beyond Santiago.
I love that black bag. It’s walked the Camino de Santiago with me, travelled Peru, Bolivia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand as well as Mexico. The only problem with it is that it packs only from the top, meaning you have to take EVERYTHING out to find the thing at the bottom. Yes, I got used to packing pajamas and wash-bag at the top, but there were frequent occasions when my bunk in the hostel was covered in all my belongings. And this is how things get lost… I had this great t-shirt that I loved from Tribe Nutrition (an awesome, conscious, sports nutrition brand. Check them out here!). It was quite new, cotton and I used it to sleep in. However, it was the same colour as the sheets in the hostel and I left it behind somewhere in Mexico. 

Happily I’ve not lost many things whilst globetrotting (pens, hair-ties and a book), but keeping a careful eye on my stuff has made me more tidy. Never leave your wash stuff in the bathroom if you don’t want someone else to use it. Expect your towel to go missing when it looks like everyone else’s travel towel, unless you hang it up carefully near your bed. 
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Stef tending to our travelling garden on our way from France to Serbia.
But I’ve noticed that it’s not just while I’m backpacking now. My last trip - to France and the Balkans - was by car. I find I now have the habit of putting things back where I took them from and keeping my stuff in one area. Ok that area might not be that tidy (right now, my bag is just dumped out into the bottom of the wardrobe in the apartment that I call home at the moment) but everything is in there, and with the doors shut it looks tidy. 

Ask my Mum and she may not agree - my room at her house tends towards the childhood habit of keeping clothes displayed on the floor (yes I do need that many pairs of black leggings), but travel has made me tidier and more aware of where my stuff is - just one more reason to go around the world!

Are you a tidy person? And when you travel? I can’t wait to travel again! Once we can, where do you want to go? And how much stuff will you be taking? Comment below.
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World Day of the Poor:FARM STREET ORGANIST CHANGES KEY TO OFFER SUPPORT

17/11/2020

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It was back in January that I last played the organ at Farm Street Church in Mayfair before taking a sabbatical. The world I returned to was very different. Have a read of the article I wrote for the church.

Read Here
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    Hannah the traveller

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