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Is Egypt Dangerous?

2/7/2019

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Basically, no! 

I always advise people to do their own research and make up their own mind as everyone has a different perspective. However, in my opinion, Egypt is a safe country to travel to and around, even as a solo female. Read on for more details of transport, the risk of theft and being hassled. 
Sinai
This is the part on the map that shows up in red on the UK home office website. North Sinai has some problems to do with the Muslim Brotherhood, who were booted out of government after taking the reigns following the uprising in 2011. Sharm el sheik is fine, Dahab is fine, Nuweiba is fine. Mount Sinai is fine. Don’t wander off anywhere that tourists wouldn’t usually go. There are check-points on some roads, which is inconvenient but reassuring.

Transport
I arrived to Egypt via ferry from Jordan. The immigration system was fine. People on the ferry helped me find the right places to go, no-one asked for bribes (I’ve been places that they have). 
I took a bus from Dahab to Cairo overnight with Go Bus. There are other bus companies but this is the newest. The bus was lovely (aircon, tv, all mod cons), it was stopped at a couple of checkpoints which shows how seriously security is taken. 
I also took the overnight train to Luxor - not the posh sleeper, the normal train (see here for EVERYTHING you need to know about trains in Egypt). I went with first class (it was about £3 more than second class). It was fine. Policemen patrol the station where you have to scan your bags to gain entry. Several people helped me not to get off at the wrong stop. 
I took a night bus back to Cairo and then to Alexandria. Again, no problems at all. 

Theft/pickpockets 
I’ve been around the world and the only place I’ve been a victim of crime is in good ole London. Don’t walk around with your wallet hanging out of your pocket and use sensible precautions as you would anywhere else in the world. I have a small handbag which I can wear in front of me in crowded areas.

Bombs and the media
While I was in Jordan on my way to Egypt,  there were news reports about a bomb at the pyramids. I met a guy who was in Giza that day. He said that the media had exaggerated the problem - it wasn’t actually at the pyramids but at the yet-to-open new museum nearby. It seems the intention was disruption rather than aggression, some people think that too much money was spent on the new museum. Once again I cite London as an example - terror attacks happen there too. In my opinion, Cairo is no more of a danger to me than my home city. 

Hassle
This is a more complex topic. Egypt is famous for a haggling kind of way, everything is much louder too. People shout at each other not in anger, that’s just how they communicate. Men (sometimes women) will try lots of tricks to get you to part with money. Don’t let taxi drivers take your bag until you’ve agreed a price. Don’t accept gifts. Preferably don’t get your money out in busy areas like the pyramids, if you want that tacky statue, get it in a shop later. My worst experiences were in Luxor. None of the behaviour I experienced was threatening or dangerous, just really annoying. Be polite but firm (easier said than done when it’s 40 degrees and all you want to do is watch the sunset and the entire population of Luxor has a boat they want you to have a ride on). If you’re less used to this level of irritation or you reach your tolerance threshold, then book hotels or hostels online and ask them to arrange to meet your from the bus or train. Then take taxis everywhere - they’re cheap. 

That’s it! My advice is: don’t wander down dark alleys alone or go with strange men anywhere. Everywhere I visited was fine to walk around after dark as it was still busy. Don’t talk to anyone at the pyramids at all. If you need a break or want to ease in gently then head for Dahab or Alexandria, both of which are less intense than Luxor and Cairo.

I had a wonderful time in Egypt. There’s such a complex history and culture and it deserves the levels of tourism that it previously had. Are you thinking of going? Any questions then just comment below. 

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Dahab, Egypt - a diver’s paradise

10/6/2019

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Dahab, a lazy town on the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt, used to be booming. Hotels and restaurants jostled for position with dive shops - so many dive shops - all capitalising on the extraordinary marine environment that this part of the Red Sea has to offer. But now, as I walked the pedestrian street all along the bay, derelict buildings sit embarrassedly between shiny resorts. Construction sites are frozen in time. Direct flights from many European countries were halted following a so-called uprising in 2011, so it was with some caution that I researched my trip. I had firsthand recommendations and my googling hadn’t led to anything that ruled out my plans. A sense of adventure plus the draw of diving meant that I made Dahab the central part of my Middle East trip.
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It’s possible to exist in Dahab without ever seeing a car. My first few days involved walking the 50m between my room at the fantastic Red Sea Relax Resort, their dive centre and the ocean. When I did see a motor vehicle it was a truck to take us and our scuba gear to the famous Canyon and Blue Hole dive sites which are only a short ride away. The vibe of this place is so relaxed! The idea of it being in anyway dangerous is hard to believe - I could stay forever.


The main reason I enjoyed my stay so much was the amazing service at the resort and the incredible experience with the dive centre. I have genuinely never seen a dive centre so organised. There are numbered lockers for those diving multiple days, special racks for masks and wetsuits and a dedicated classroom with tv and aircon. Course director and manager Jordan fosters the perfect environment. Every one of the staff are friendly, helpful, inclusive and laidback. But when it comes to scuba, the highest level of professionalism is maintained. Walid my instructor was demanding, encouraging and supportive, and knows all the sites as if they were is own house. I very quickly felt like part of the team and not simply a client to please or student to push through exams, which I’ve experienced elsewhere. Check out their Facebook page for some underwater pictures too.
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Similarly, Said and the other staff at the hotel answered every question I had, whilst being friendly and generous. Diving in Dahab is incredibly good value, almost all the sites are shore dives, not boat dives, and the wealth of competition keeps prices low and standards high. You only have to stick your head underwater to meet some of the fishier residents. Red Sea Relax offer a great deal for backpackers - you can stay in the dorm for free for every day that you dive and it’s only €7 for days you aren’t diving. Dahab’s Blue Hole is famous for all the right and wrong reasons - but my dive there is one of the highlights of my scuba career.
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Selfishly, I don’t want the direct flights to start again. I want to keep Dahab for myself - chilled and slow paced, with new friends waiting to be met and dive sites waiting to be discovered. I’ll be back soon to explore the underwater world and relax in a trendy cafe.

Getting there: you can fly via several destinations including Istanbul, to Sharm al sheik which is an hour or so taxi or bus ride away. Or coming from Jordan, you can arrive to Nuweiba on the ferry. See here for more information about that.
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Cedar Pride: diving in Aqaba in Jordan

3/6/2019

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Jordan has so much to offer the backpacker. Come for Petra - the ancient world wonder carved into the rose rocks - stay for the friendly people, good food and some scuba diving.


Dive Aqaba have a shop in downtown Aqaba surrounded by dozens of other shops. It’s a 15 minute drive to south beach where you can shore dive to your heart’s content. The walk from the shady kitting up area to the water is a bit rocky but not too far. Once outside of the swimming area the underwater world is teaming with life. Eels, puffer fish, parrot fish and clown fish are all actively going about their lives.

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Instructor Shammas led us along the reef towards the wreck of Cedar Pride. The giant sailing boat sits on its side across two rocks, leaving space to swim through underneath. After examining the crows nest, the party of trick of this wreck is an air pocket where you’re able to breathe and talk 12m underwater!


This is one of over 20 dive sites in the area, many of the reached from the shore. Others include a sunken army tank and the wreck of a plane. Thanks for having us Dive Aqaba!

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    Hannah the traveller

    is a travel and lifestyle blog with focus on running, vegan eating and of course global travel.

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