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BERWICKSHIRE COASTAL PATH: Microadventure in Scotland

3/6/2022

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I’ve always got a bit of a, what I call, “mad plan” at the back of my mind. Sometimes involving sleeping in airports or on buses, somehow squeezing in an adventure into whatever else I happen to be doing. Alastair Humphreys coined the term ‘microadventure’. And it was with Alastair’s help that I could set off on the Berwickshire Coastal Path.

This mad plan did in fact involve sleeping on a bus. The night bus from London to Edinburgh is only barely useful, as booking train tickets in advance can be not too much more. But I was disorganised about when to travel, booked last minute and then nearly missed it, thinking that it left Victoria Coach Station at 11:30 pm when departure time was actually 10:30 pm. It was exciting to be waking up in a new place.

Edinburgh in the early morning was a treat, no tourists and clear skies. I had given myself one day to gather some kit together before setting off to walk the Berwickshire Coastal Path. From Cockburnspath (pronounced Co-burns path) to Berwick-Upon-Tweed, it’s just 50 kilometres along the cliffs of Scotland and then into the northerly city of England. Thanks to friends Beccy and Charlotte I could borrow a raincoat, sleeping bag and big backpack. I’d brought my brother’s (now mine I think, finders keepers, sorry Ben) Bivvy bag from my mum’s but I still needed a sleeping mat. Enter Alastair’s twitter followers. Minutes after asking Al to retweet my request, I was in touch with Nicholas, via someone else, who came and dropped off a roll mat. I couldn’t believe the generosity of going out of his way to help a complete stranger with a mad plan. 

My previous near-miss with a bus had me at the bus station rather earlier than necessary to get the 253. I had to remember to get off at the right place, otherwise I’d end up in Berwick without having walked anywhere. An hour and half after leaving Edinburgh, I was a bit dozy from the journey, but it was suddenly time to get off. Within minutes of starting my walk, everything was wrong. I needed to pee, my water bottle fell out of its holder, I was too hot. Ok, kit sorted, now to find the sea.
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The first finger post on the Berwickshire Coastal Path. I do love a good footpath sign.
PictureProof of reaching Siccar Point.
I quite like not researching too much into what I’m doing. I don’t want someone else to spoil the surprises. But I do love a good travel or adventure book, preferably similar not too similar to what I’m doing. For this trip I was reading James Scanlan’s A Moroccan Journey: Agadir to Tangier I’d started it on the bus and had the words echoing in my ears as a strode along the first stretch of cliff top. Walking from Morocco to England was a bit different to my current two day challenge, yet we both had big packs and adventurous outlooks. James shared a similar outlook at the start of the journey, and writes at the start of his journey:

“He stopped at the beach by the first Ferris Wheel to be built in Africa, to readjust pronouns and rehydrate, then off I walked… the whole world smelt of rotten fish.”

My first milestone was Siccar Point. Nicholas of roll mat fame had told me of the geological importance of this bit of coast. It’s called somebody’s Unconformity. Henderson’s? No, that's the name of the veggie restaurant. Hudson’s? Could be. It provided proof in the 18th century that the world was aeons old and not just 6,000 years old. (No fact checking here, might be all wrong.) To reach the point, which offers no view of the rocks that are so famous, requires dodging cowpats and their menacing producers. After a windy swig of water in celebration, I had to return along cowpat path to continue. But I took a selfie with the information board, so that’s ok.

Whilst the stunning scenery and surprisingly good weather were a joy, there’s always those moments when you question your sanity. I’d run out of water and was traversing a long, slow, grassy gradient. Sheep shit everywhere. I was hungry but didn’t want to stop in the shitty field. My left ankle was tired of constantly walking along the sloping ground and the wind was so strong it nearly knocked me off balance. It is in these moments that peanut butter scoped from a jar with a pita bread tastes the best!

My impeccable timing meant I reached the quaint village of St Abbs just as everything was closing. I heard the bolt slide shut on the visitors’ centre (and loos) as I rounded the corner. But I didn’t need amenities, I had the ocean (and sufficient nutrition). Sitting on a stone bench in the sun, overlooking the harbour, munching on raisins and chatting to my OH on a video call was all I needed right then.

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The cove where I slept. Bliss.
“How did you sleep?” was the first question of my friends on my return to Edinburgh. “Ridiculously well,” was my smug response. My superpower is the ability to sleep anywhere. I’m so grateful for it. After walking through two perfectly good coves, I decided to settle in the third. The reddish rock offered substantial protection from the still-howling wind and I found the perfect spot above the waterline in some soft grass surrounded by growing ferns and pink and purple flowers. By 8:30 pm I was snuggled in my borrowed sleeping bag, as James was once again walking through rain and around illegal sand mines on the Moroccan coast.

I don’t mind my own company at all, something James and I share. “Naturally introverted, I could easily walk for six months without talking to a soul, and all I’d have to show for it at the end would be half a haiku.” At 4:30 am I peaked out at the stunning sunrise. Reds and golds sparkled on the sea. Then promptly fell back to sleep until my alarm at 7 am. 


Never has the automatic door of a Co-Op made such a welcoming noise. Eyemouth is my new favourite place. The little sandy beach was the perfect location for my breakfast of Diet Coke, apple and well travelled Plenny Bar (see this post if you don’t know what that is). I had to have a paddle. I’d just seen a man wade in in only swimming shorts, so I can’t be that cold right? Wrong. But so refreshing. Especially given how much of the path was high up on the cliffs, I wasn’t sure when I’d be at sea level again.

“Nobody cares that much. I’m sorry that’s not true. Nobody cares at all.”

James quotes Bill Bryson in his book, about reading other people’s blog posts about walking, so boring. So I won’t bore you with the hours of jagged coastal rocks, grassy cliff tops, occasional caravan park. You’ll see them all when you walk it yourself. But the constant sun (yes I got sunburnt in Scotland) was remarkable. James too focuses on encounters and people rather than his route. The friendly old chaps who filled my water bottle, and the dog walker who spotted the deer and the cyclists walking their bikes up a steep hill, those are the memorable things about my journey. 


Berwick-Upon-Tweed was welcome when it came. By which I mean, after I accidentally continued along the coast instead of turning inland. After purchasing some much-needed aftersun location, I sat by the River Tweed, composed new words to a tune that was stuck in my head, and let James arrive in Tangier. We shared the feelings of relief, disappointment, triumph and agitation at the temporary end to our journeys. 

Massive thanks to Nicholas, Beccy and Charlotte for lending me kit, and James Scanlan for keeping me company. And to Alastair Humphreys for constant encouragement of mad plans.

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A tale of two cities: Bosnia’s Bihac and Banja Luka

26/5/2021

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What do you know about Bosnia? Do you know about the stunning scenery and national park? Or the highlights of a tour of the second city? Keep reading for some vegan food-porn too!

Historic city centres and beautiful hiking trails, the Balkan country of Bosnia and Herzegovina holds much to interest and inspire, yet remains far from the top of most people’s must-go holiday destinations. The turbulent history of this former Yugoslavian country makes it a fascinating place to visit - capital Sarajevo is the main draw, hosting western European backpackers in the quaint cafes of the Old Town, but there’s far more to the country than this. 


Bihac is the northernmost city in Bosnia and is located in the Federation - predominantly Bosniac muslims inhabit this area. When arriving overland from Croatia, the spires of churches are replaced by the minarets of mosques. Bullet holes are still visible in the buildings from the war which finished in the 1990s, yet Bihac is eager for tourists. 

On first arriving in the city, explore the main square. The cafe-lined and traffic-free Bosanka is a favourite hangout of friendly locals. Stop off for a mali espresso and a chat before continuing to the ancient Fethija Mosque. Originally built as a church in 1266 before being converted to a mosque in 1592, it is the oldest gothic building in the country. It’s quiet location makes it a peaceful place to stop and think awhile.

Not far from here is the pristine River Una, the pride of the city. A view of the crystal clear waters can be enjoyed from the city centre park, or from Cafe H2O on the other side of town.

The city is attractive, but the countryside is the main reason to come. Short hiking trails start in the city to the hill-top fort, but to really see the beauty of the scenery, you need to head to the Una Sana National Park. The famous waterfall Martin Brod is an hour’s drive, but the stunning cascades of Strbacki Buk are closer and can be reached by a pleasant hiking route or by car. Just be sure to stick to the obvious trails. Warning signs for landmines are another stark reminder of the recent conflict. 

If just seeing the water isn’t enough, why not get closer?! Rafting companies can easily be found in Bihac who will take care of all your needs for an exciting day on the water.

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Banja Luka is Bosnia’s second largest city, and the capital of Republica Srpska. This area is claimed by ethnic Serbs - Orthodox Christianty dominates the city. The modern Cathedral stands in a trendy pedestrian zone where glassy shop fronts lead towards the ruined fortress. 

Before you set off to hike up to the war memorial in Tresnjik Park, ensure you stock up on cakes and pastries for the journey. Vegans rejoice! The fasting traditions of the Orthodox church mean that there are plenty of baked goods which are free from animal products. If you can’t see the label for Posno, just ask. Mouthwatering cream cakes with praline centres and buttery croissants are all cruelty free.
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With regular bus connections to Sarajevo from both cities, and to Croatia from Bihac, BiH isn’t too hard to get to. Better is to hire a car and enjoy the road trip in this intriguing and beautiful country.

How much does this make you want to visit? It's really interesting writing from a tourism perspective like this, without a single mention of the refugee crisis. 



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Hiking Near Čačak Serbia

12/10/2020

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I’m not sure I would have ever visited Serbia on holiday had it not been for the pandemic and the migrant crisis combined. Perhaps I would have done a long weekend if there were a sale on flights to Belgrade. Even on my break between projects, I hadn’t planned to visit Čačak (pronounced Charchak). Stef and I were travelling in southern Serbia and Kosovo on our way to Bosnia. We visited Niš in Serbia with its ancient Ottoman history and concentration camp museum, before stopping in Kosovar capital Pristina. It was at this point we had to decide how and where to get a Covid PCR test which is required before entering Bosnia. Some map searching and googling led to Čačak. After a whistle-stop visit to beautiful Prizren and it’s many mosques, and a quick stop in the divided city of Mitrovica, we arrived to a small health centre in a random city. Here’s some info about the city, and what we got up to while waiting for the test and for the result.
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Mountain Cabin life.
Čačak

​The city is located just over two hours on the bus from Belgrade, in the West Morava Valley in Central Serbia. There are over 30 monasteries in the vicinity dating from the 14th century. Many of these are located in the Ovcar-Kablar Gorge. More on this later. The city has a bustling main square, busy market and friendly inhabitants. But if you visit, you'll likely spend most of your time out of the city.

​Mountain Air


We stayed at this mountain cabin near Prejevor, not too far from the centre. It was the perfect antidote to the bustling cities we had been in. Peaceful, green and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Jovana and her mum Lily welcomed us with coffee, homemade jam and fresh salad before lighting a BBQ to cook corn on the cob. We went for a walk up the hill, passing the orchards of plum trees, the encroaching darkness revealed the multitude of stars.
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Hiking and Monasteries

The next morning we set off to scale the mountain of Kablar. We had some vague directions and had a very adventurous drive through old mountain tunnels before arriving to Ovcar Banjar, a tiny town in the river valley. We had a quick look at the hiking map before starting our ascent. There are plenty of trails here and different ways to reach the summit. We of course didn’t notice the ! that accompanied our route. There were very steep sections where scrambling was required, metal handholds had been positioned in some places but it was definitely quite dodgy. The views paid off though. We gained height quickly and the view along the valley in both directions was stunning. We reached the top, sweaty and proud, and sat and ate some chocolate admiring the view, while those who had driven most of the way up bustled to the viewpoint and back. The trail we chose for the descent was much easier going. There were fruit trees to keep us energised, and a really different landscape. None of the same stunning river views though.
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Hiking Trails Map
Čačak Centre

We stayed at an apartment in the centre of the city for a couple of nights. I’m not sure I’d recommend the place we stayed but it will remain memorable for a host of reasons…! I had a lovely run through the pedestrianised centre to the river. Then we visited the church as we wandered around. The highlights of many trips are often the food. We found THE best bakery. Serbia is a vegan paradise. No, I’m not joking. Thanks to the Eastern Orthodox tradition of abstaining from animal products on Wednesdays and Fridays, many baked goods are vegan. Zmej pekara was amazing! Not only did they have friendly and patient staff, but a wealth of vegan choice. I think we visited about 4 times in 3 days. The mushroom burek, potato pitta, sweet breads and weird cheesecake thing were all amazing but were however shadowed by THE CHOCOLATE CROISSANT. Chocolate filled and chocolate covered. Bliss.

The market in Čačak was another absolute highlight. The colourful stands of fresh and local produce were a vegan heaven. We were admiring a man’s melon stall and were offered a taste. “Dobro” we had a multilingual conversation about which countries we were from, which somehow resulted in us being given half an enormous melon! 
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Paintings and refreshment at Monastir Preobrazenje
Hiking Mount Ovcar

Undeterred by our adventurous hike, we returned to Ovcar Banjar to scale the second of the twin peaks. The monasteries in this area are extraordinary. Many are still inhabited by monks or nuns, and have ancient wall paintings. The first that we visited was Monastir Preobrazenje where we had to put on long clothes to be allowed to enter. The nuns were very friendly and had provided fruit and water, and the paintings inside the dark chapel were beautiful. We continued our hike on the other side of the river where we saw three or four other monasteries. Another larger one had refreshments for travellers too. It was at this point that we decided that the weather wasn’t quite bad enough to deter us from scaling the peak. It was shortly after this that it started with the thunder and lightning. You’ll have to let me know what the view is like from the top…

If we had more time, there were miles and miles of unexplored paths and numerous other monasteries to visit. And I'd definitely return to the city just to visit the pekara!

What's the best bakery food you've had? Comment below.



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The view from Kablar before it rained!
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Finding Narnia: a secret hike in Hawaii

13/3/2018

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Narnia Falls, Hilo, Hawaii
I could hear it before I could see it. As I hiked down a gentle slope towards an opening in the trees the noise grew louder. The continuous thundering rush of gallons and gallons of water pouring down multiple waterfalls. White foam starkly contrasting against the black, shiny lava rock that makes up the riverbed of Hawaii’s second longest river.


I had apparently found Narnia.


I was staying with friends in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii when I asked for advice about what to do with my day. My friend dropped a pin on a map and said “that’s the way to Narnia”. I googled it and found some very vague and conflicting directions about where to go to find the start of this secret trail known locally as Narnia, but went along to have a look. After a short walk at the side of a quiet road I came to a turning with a chain across the entrance and a bold yellow sign reading DEAD END. Others had clearly skirted the chain and proceeded down the road, just as I did now. It definitely looked like a dead end until, right at the back I saw a muddy track leading steeply upwards. “I can always turn back”, I thought as I squelched my way up in the drizzle. Still skeptical about what I was doing and mostly watching my footing to avoid the worst puddles, I was surprised when the path suddenly flattened and opened out to a wide, stony track in the middle of a forest. The wet palm trees and vines looked just the part for a journey to another world. I was through the wardrobe.

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As I walked briskly along with peaceful track it seemed impossible to imagine the roads and houses of the sleepy town of Hilo. I was surrounded by greenery on all sides and entirely alone with the sounds of nature. Coming to a junction of paths I had to decide. Chance (and a vague sense of direction) took me towards the Wailuku River which had been such a feature of my previous adventures too. It’s easy to imagine Hina - mother of demigod Maui - and the antics of giant lizard Kuna whose stories intertwine with the life of the island and the water.


Turning my back on the water and retracing my steps I smiled to myself, pleased that I had found this secret spot despite the lack of information and the rain. As the drizzle turned heavier I couldn’t help but be grateful and proud to be in such an amazing place.



Want to find Narnia too? Message me using the Contact Form (not via a comment, I can't reply to you then) with why you want to visit and I’ll give you some clues!
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    Hannah the traveller

    is a travel and lifestyle blog with focus on running, vegan eating and of course global travel.

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