HANNAH PARRY
  • Home
  • Hannah
  • Critical Acclaim and Media
  • Contact
  • Hannah the traveller
  • Buy A Gift for someone in Need

A tale of two cities: Bosnia’s Bihac and Banja Luka

26/5/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
What do you know about Bosnia? Do you know about the stunning scenery and national park? Or the highlights of a tour of the second city? Keep reading for some vegan food-porn too!

Historic city centres and beautiful hiking trails, the Balkan country of Bosnia and Herzegovina holds much to interest and inspire, yet remains far from the top of most people’s must-go holiday destinations. The turbulent history of this former Yugoslavian country makes it a fascinating place to visit - capital Sarajevo is the main draw, hosting western European backpackers in the quaint cafes of the Old Town, but there’s far more to the country than this. 


Bihac is the northernmost city in Bosnia and is located in the Federation - predominantly Bosniac muslims inhabit this area. When arriving overland from Croatia, the spires of churches are replaced by the minarets of mosques. Bullet holes are still visible in the buildings from the war which finished in the 1990s, yet Bihac is eager for tourists. 

On first arriving in the city, explore the main square. The cafe-lined and traffic-free Bosanka is a favourite hangout of friendly locals. Stop off for a mali espresso and a chat before continuing to the ancient Fethija Mosque. Originally built as a church in 1266 before being converted to a mosque in 1592, it is the oldest gothic building in the country. It’s quiet location makes it a peaceful place to stop and think awhile.

Not far from here is the pristine River Una, the pride of the city. A view of the crystal clear waters can be enjoyed from the city centre park, or from Cafe H2O on the other side of town.

The city is attractive, but the countryside is the main reason to come. Short hiking trails start in the city to the hill-top fort, but to really see the beauty of the scenery, you need to head to the Una Sana National Park. The famous waterfall Martin Brod is an hour’s drive, but the stunning cascades of Strbacki Buk are closer and can be reached by a pleasant hiking route or by car. Just be sure to stick to the obvious trails. Warning signs for landmines are another stark reminder of the recent conflict. 

If just seeing the water isn’t enough, why not get closer?! Rafting companies can easily be found in Bihac who will take care of all your needs for an exciting day on the water.

Picture
Banja Luka is Bosnia’s second largest city, and the capital of Republica Srpska. This area is claimed by ethnic Serbs - Orthodox Christianty dominates the city. The modern Cathedral stands in a trendy pedestrian zone where glassy shop fronts lead towards the ruined fortress. 

Before you set off to hike up to the war memorial in Tresnjik Park, ensure you stock up on cakes and pastries for the journey. Vegans rejoice! The fasting traditions of the Orthodox church mean that there are plenty of baked goods which are free from animal products. If you can’t see the label for Posno, just ask. Mouthwatering cream cakes with praline centres and buttery croissants are all cruelty free.
Picture
With regular bus connections to Sarajevo from both cities, and to Croatia from Bihac, BiH isn’t too hard to get to. Better is to hire a car and enjoy the road trip in this intriguing and beautiful country.

How much does this make you want to visit? It's really interesting writing from a tourism perspective like this, without a single mention of the refugee crisis. 



0 Comments

Fasting in Ramadan: Friendship and Gratitude

20/5/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
Calais, France in May 2020
Last year, during Ramadan, I lived in France. I was staying with some people who are Muslim and were fasting during the daytime, before preparing lovely evening meals which I was invited to. So I took the opportunity to join them in fasting for a few days.

In May last year in France, sunset wasn’t until after 9:30pm. That’s a looong time to go without food. I picked a day when I would be quite busy with voluntary work and accepted that it would be a challenge. I didn’t find it too difficult to sit with the other volunteers while they were eating lunch, I was mindful that I had chosen to do this and that avoiding the world isn’t really the spirit of it.

Dinner that evening was wonderful. My housemates had prepared a lovely meal, nicely laid out on the table with dates, juice, bread and a vegetable lentil dish. The final hour had been mentally hard as my stomach growled knowing that I would eat soon, but the tastes of the food and the companionship with my friends was certainly worth it.
Picture
Lovely iftar food!

This year I was in Bosnia for most of Ramadan. I was volunteering with No Name Kitchen. My friends who were sleeping rough in the city, refugees from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran and elsewhere, were fasting despite the difficult living conditions. I talked with a lot of people about what it was like, and many people told me that they are used to it. They’ve grown up with the fasting tradition. But the words of one of my closer friends struck me the most.


“We’re used to going without food. Sometimes we will have two or three days when we can’t eat anything, fasting during the day is no problem.”
I chose not to fast while I was working in Bihac. We had long, exhausting days, and I didn’t want to affect the work we were doing when people were counting on us to help. But once I had returned to Germany I fasted for a couple of days. I found it refreshing. It helped me realise (not for the first time) how lucky I am to have access to any food I want almost all the time.

The freedoms of a Western European life start at the basics - access to food and water, the most basic of human rights. 


My Muslim friends, who are still stuck in Bosnia, were very happy to hear that I had fasted with them for a short time. It was a pleasure to be able to have something in common, despite our lives being so different.

We talked about next year, that we will be able to celebrate together when they have reached safe places. 

To show support for people stranded in Bosnia, donate to No Name Kitchen here.


Do you fast for Ramadan? If not, would you try it? Comment below.
0 Comments

Bosnia Update: May 2021

4/5/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
A year ago I was in Calais. We thought the pandemic might be over in time to have a normal summer and I was making myself useful until I could work or travel again. When hope faded, adventure and purpose beckoned and my eyes were opened to the atrocious situation for people at the edge of the EU. 

Two weeks after returning from a second trip to Bosnia, I’m not looking back with the same reflection that I had last time. Because it is still real. My friends message me about their daily lives, including when they have been pushed back from Croatia or Slovenia.

THEY HAVE A LEGAL RIGHT TO ASK FOR ASYLUM. 


I was naive to think that people didn’t know about the illegal actions of the Croatian, Greek and Slovenian border forces. Funded by the European Union, these officers are paid by taxpayers to illegally and brutally remove vulnerable people in unforgivably dangerous ways. Every testimony I collected for the Border Violence Monitoring Network included not only illegal removal across an international border, but theft and destruction of personal property. 

“I understand that their job is to remove us, but why steal and break our things?” 
Picture
One of the differences returning to Bihać was that I had some level of acceptance of the situation, and wasn’t as shocked. There were of course good moments. Having lunch with some friends sat in the sun, hospitality generously extended, though they have little. 
Picture
Sitting with two forthright and intelligent young women and two wise-beyond-their-years young men from different countries, talking together in English about the state of the world, the illogical, the bizarre and the funny. Reflecting that, once they have reached a safe place, they will go so far. 


And Bosnia is beautiful. The mountainous landscape around the city has trails to explore and stunning views to discover. On one of the last mornings, Stephanie and I had a breakfast picnic at a small viewpoint just outside Bihać, overlooking the stunning River Una. Grateful for everything we had and everything we had given. 
Picture
For me now, it’s not a case of having ‘done my bit’ and moving on to something else.
​The situation at the borders of the EU has to change. It has to. 

What can we do?

Every one of us needs to do something about this. Us in the UK, no longer EU members, what can we do? We seem so detached from these problems which are so far away.

How I see it, there are two things you can do:


1. Make yourself aware of the circumstances and talk about it. 

It seems so small, but gradually changing public opinion can only be a good thing. And it makes those of us who are campaigning feel better about the work we are doing. For a start, follow BVMN on Twitter.

2. Challenge what is happening in the UK.

What if the UK were a gold-standard in the way that refugees and asylum seekers were treated? Some of those who arrive to the UK will have come via Bosnia or Serbia. They have faced an extremely hard time in order to arrive at Britain's safe shores, we need to ensure that they are welcomed and given every opportunity to succeed. 


Sign up to volunteer locally. Care4Calais are a good place to find out more. Honestly, the rewards of meeting new people and feeling useful are tremendous!
Simply liking and commenting on Facebook, Instagram and Tweets of organisations such as Seawatch, Aegean Boat Report and of course No Name Kitchen shows support and increases the reach of these important posts. 

Whatever you are able to do, keep in touch. Send me messages, ask me questions and read my posts. Because I’m not letting this go.
0 Comments

    Hannah the traveller

    is a travel and lifestyle blog with focus on running, vegan eating and of course global travel.

    Categories

    All
    Adventuring
    Afghanistan
    Africa
    Backpacking
    Bike Ride
    Book Review
    Bosnia
    Calais
    Farm
    Festival
    Fitness
    Germany
    Guest Post
    Half Marathon
    Hawaii
    Hiking
    Kayaking
    Kindness
    London
    Marathon
    MEXICO
    Middle East
    Migrant Crisis
    Mindfulness
    Music
    Norfolk
    Politics
    Product Review
    Ramadan
    Recipe
    Refugees
    Running
    Scuba Diving
    Serbia
    Travel
    UK
    Vegan
    Volunteer
    Women
    Yoga

    Archives

    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    June 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016

    RSS Feed

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.